It took me 8 years to finally make this trip happen.

The original idea was a road trip from Bali all the way to Yogyakarta, stopping at every interesting place I could find along the way. But that plan was canceled; the route felt too long, other islands were (and still are) calling, and life just happened, as usual. Since I’d already done Yogja and had no particular reason to return, the route eventually shrank to Bromo. I had various versions in my head, but after doing the math I stuck with plan A: riding my scooter from Bali to Bromo and back.

Yeah, it’s a long one, but flying to Surabaya, renting a bike there, or taking a bus to Malang and renting one there, then making the same journey back to Bali, seemed just as – if not more – painful and bothersome. Not to mention all the extra travel time, scheduling, and costs.. and checking my pinned map, I would’ve ended up driving even more. As said, I did the math.

Anyhow, I’m on a mission this year: I have a full bucket list to check off before I leave Indonesia. So I didn’t plan much further, packed a backpack, got on the bike, and left. With the mindset of whatever happens, happens, I took on the adventure.

PEMUTERAN

The longest and most painful part is always getting out of Bali, no matter which direction you’re heading. To the west, there are two ways: the highway and my way. The latter is longer but much more enjoyable:

• In Tabanan, head north through the mountains. A golden rule in life is always to choose the scenic road over the main one – no difference here.
• Stop for lunch at Warung Dedy. Entil Sanda is the most flavorful Balinese dish, and you won’t find it in the mainstream areas – high chances you’ve never heard of it either.
• Spend a night (or two) around Pemuteran. Although it’s getting busier (just wait until they build the casinos), this once-honeymoon destination still holds on to the real charm and authenticity of Bali. Finding that is just as rare as empty petrol stations.. and guess what, you find those here too.

The journey may take longer, but it’s far more rewarding than battling cars for a strip of asphalt and constantly overtaking trucks (at least you skip that for part of the ride).

BANYUWANGI

After a recharging sleep and delightful breakfast at Mangroove Bay (better than the main Sumberkima POV), I took off on my mission.

Gilimanuk is Bali’s ferry port to Ketapang, Java. The crossing itself is relatively fast.. except when your ferry gets stranded in a waiting line or sinks (one of the reasons I’d never sit on a night ferry or boat, ever). For real, it can take anywhere from 30 minutes to infinity, and my crossing took almost two hours – pretty painful when all you want is to get going and have your afternoon coffee.

Ferry costs: 40.000 IDR for a midsize bike and a person. You can buy the ticket in the Ferizy app or on the side of the road. ID and the bike’s papers are needed (no smuggling).

Note that Java is one hour behind, so as soon as you land on the other side, you also land in the past. No big deal; only sunset comes an hour earlier too, which makes the days feel even shorter than what I’m used to in Bali. I was flirting with the idea of spending a night in Banyuwangi, but sipping my Jcoccino gave me the motivation to squeeze a bit more into the day.

On the southern road from Banyuwangi, you pass rice fields with mountains on both sides, but you don’t have much space for sightseeing: potholes alternate with uneven road fillers and all kinds of bumps, spiced up with heavy traffic (because it’s the national highway). You’d better keep your attention on driving.

Fun fact (or life hack): According to my observation, the best day to drive is Friday on Muslim-majority islands, when men are at the mosque, and Sunday morning on Christian-majority islands, when everyone’s at church. The difference in the number of vehicles is noticeable, so if you prefer a good speed with the least amount of stress, schedule accordingly.

DE DJAWATAN FOREST

One of the longest-standing items on my list was this forest. The name literally translates as the office, because it was a Dutch colonial timber depot in the past. Today, it’s an enchanting forest of around 805 massive, moss-covered Trembesi (monkey pod) trees, all 100+ years old.
The site is touristy for a good reason. The way the trees’ shy crowns dance in the breeze without ever touching, the textures, and the whole atmosphere felt like stepping into a fairytale. I completely disconnected from the people around me and immersed myself in the surroundings. Grab some snacks and a good coffee at Kedai Trembesi, and have a lil’ picnic (as many locals do).

Honestly, I wish I’d come sooner, but at the same time, it was a fuckin’ perfect timing – both in terms of life period and the time of the day; weekday afternoon, around golden hour, after photo crowds gone.

Entry: 20.000 IDR for foreigners + 2.000 IDR parking

JEMBER

Since the forest is about an hour from Banyuwangi, I didn’t want to turn back for the night. Forward is where we go, so I pinned a night destination in Jember. I wanted to get as far as possible and find a good rhythm in driving.. well, the mountains and rainforest thought differently.

It gets dark fast and early, and that’s the smallest problem. The curvy mountain road, which I imagine is amazing on a dry day, leads through a rainforest, and with dusk, the clouds and rain settled in too. I’m not rooting for driving with all my stuff on my back, in a poncho, on a bike. It’s not that I cannot do it (I’m living in the tropics too long and am used to such things), but I’m still not a fan. Two hours of rain out of the 2,5-hour journey was slightly annoying, and made me really happy to arrive, take a hot shower, finish my leftover tempeh mendoan, and go to sleep.

I spent the night at Omah Mee Homestay (I booked it in a kinda rush, so was looking for high ratings and decent-looking photos only). One thing to mention: when young guys run homestays and speak pretty good English, you can be sure they have a higher education, have some ideas and knowledge about the world (or at least about their country), and are always chatty and welcoming with foreigners.

Jember is such a transit city, with plenty of accommodations, restos, and markets. But here you are deep in the local Indo world, so don’t look for any Western cushioning – you won’t find it. The best is to go with the flow, mingle, and adapt.. or at least try to stay curious and open. Maybe the biggest surprise here was finding a delish bubur ayam next to the morning market. It had eeeverything, tasted perfect, and was so packed that the guy could barely close the takeaway box.

To be completely honest, Bromo was only partially interesting to me. What really caught my attention in East Java were the waterfalls. From Jember, I headed straight to Lumajang (the waterfall epicenter), though the journey itself was neither direct nor boring.

AIR TERJUN ANTROKAN

Damn. I have questionable taste in men, but an unbeatable, excellent taste in picking waterfalls. I’m old enough and have seen enough, and I don’t care for any random trickling water on rocks. No. It has to be something, it has to provide something. And despite having high expectations, I still utterly enjoy being surprised.

If you want to skip extra rounds, do not blindly rely on Google because you’ll get lost. I did, but luckily locals helped me get on the right track (this is when small-talk-level Bahasa comes in handy). Search for Warung Kahyangan on the map, look out for the sign, and follow the road until you reach your destination.

The waterfall area is well-maintained, and the rushing water offers a refreshing breeze and a gorg view. It’s off the way of typical foreign tourism, and locals usually colonise places during weekends or late afternoons, so my timing (a Friday morning) couldn’t have been better; aside from a small group of local girls having a picnic, it was empty. Antrokan was a perfect kickoff and gave me the motivation to chase all the natural beauties I had in mind.

Entry: 7.000 IDR + 2.000 IDR for road access or parking (or whatever that extra fee was).

LUMAJANG

Lumajang is essentially another transit city. Anyone interested in Gunung Semeru uses it as a base for day trips. I did the same. I spent two nights here. I originally planned for just one, but Aston was so cozy, and I was in no rush, so I pampered myself to slow down, see as much as I can, soak it all in, and feel nowhere near any time pressure.
I don’t think any other hotel around here is worth staying at. Aston is one of the most reliable hotel chains in the country; regardless of which island you land on, it’s totally affordable, the beds and rooms are comfy, and I’ve only had great food at their restaurants. Highly recommended if you don’t want to gamble with your sleep.

Gunung Semeru is an active volcano that constantly puffs out smoke – sometimes just a whisper, other times a heavy plume. At first, I was worried I wouldn’t catch a clear view, but if you spend at least one morning there when the sky is clear (clouds and volcanic smoke usually build up by the afternoon), you won’t miss it. Also from certain angles, watching the crater give birth to hot, billowy smoke is mesmerizing. Nature truly humbles you; it’s wild just to imagine the sheer force that wipes us away in a second if we don’t pay attention.. and I feel lucky not to have experienced a catastrophe like that (yet). Anyhow, being a volcanic region means a waterfall paradise along the slopes; and that was my reason for coming here in the first place.

WISATA SUMBER TELU

This isn’t just a single waterfall; it’s a fairytale-like waterfall forest hidden behind a neatly landscaped garden. It’s clearly a favorite among locals ponding in the natural pools, and I totally get it: the whole atmosphere is charming, filled with cascades of all sizes and lush bamboo groves. Walk all the way from one end to the other, take a dip in the pools, and savor this hidden gem.

Entry: 25.000 IDR

PANORAMA COBAN SRITI

This wasn’t even on my list. I spotted water cascading down a cliff from a bridge, but the roaring sound intrigued me, so I decided to check if I could get a view from the other side.. and that sight was probably my loudest Ooh my fucking Goood.

I arrived around 5 pm and had the entire place to myself. The overnight rains had definitely surged the water flow, making me feel like I’d landed in Jurassic Park. It was a direct glimpse into the past – exactly how I imagine the Mesozoic era looked. Photos can’t capture the awe; it felt like I was in a dream or a time machine.. seriously waiting for a Pterodactyl to fly past.

Entry: 20.000 IDR for parking at a local house

AIR TERJUN TUMPAK SEWU

I generally avoid mainstream tourist spots for a reason, and Tumpak Sewu is a textbook example of why. These places are usually overhyped and rarely live up to the excitement. You see perfectly angled, heavily edited content online and expect the same magic, only for reality to bitchslap you. Yeah, I know, sometimes we have to take such trips to avoid FOMO, but whenever I put the less popular spots on the other side of the scale, they win every single time.

My first few waterfall choices were so incredible that I had a lingering feeling it wouldn’t get any better. I was right. Highs and lows are part of the journey, but even without bracing for disappointment – my adrenaline rush was stronger anyway – I had to face reality.
It was a Saturday. As I reached the area, I only saw tour buses, jeeps, and bigger crowds than anywhere in the last three days. Tumpak Sewu is the No.1 waterfall and the real ripoff where every tourist goes or gets dragged to. Kinda what I expected, was secretly hoping for better tho. But it is what it is: the true side of mass tourism in Indonesia.

I didn’t fancy trekking all the way down, waiting in line with a queue number for a photo (WTF), and then hauling myself back up, so I just tried to admire the view from the top and took off.

Entry: 100.000 IDR + 10.000 IDR parking (for bike)

Insider tip: If you want to save money and dodge the crowds, head to the opposite side listed as Air Terjun Coban Sewu on the map. It’s the exact same waterfall with a different name, for only 50k.

AIR TERJUN GOA TETES

This one I skipped. Stairs upon stairs, plus ladder climbing. After double-checking the photos, and a group of girls gasping for air at the end didn’t sell the vibe, I decided to look for more rewarding challenges.

However, I wonder how many stops backpacker tours squeeze into a single day, and how much climbing one person has to do. Having done a half-marathon walk the week before, I was on the lazier side of trekking and being very selective about my battles. I’m also a lazy ass (or street smart, depending on the perspective), so I look for shortcuts and usually end up finding great, if not better, spots. I’m gonna stay picky and choose quality over quantity, always.

Entry: 50.000 IDR

AIR TERJUN KABUT PELANGI

Kabut Pelangi saved the disappointment day. The view from the top resting spot was lovely and made me happy to just sit and take it in. It was also midday, so I didn’t mind avoiding driving under the scorching sun. The trek to the waterfall includes hundreds of stairs, and you know, the problem is not necessarily going down.. it’s the climb back up.

Entry: 20.000 IDR panorama / 50.000 IDR trek

PANORAMA KAPAS BIRU

Net bullshit, but a nice stop for a short break. It’s less busy around sunset, but still.. getting a queue number just to snap a photo.. meh. If you want to trek to the waterfall itself, you can access it from the other side for 50k.

Entry: 20.000 IDR (without photo number)

And it wasn’t on my bucket list, but I had the pleasure of riding through dense, massive clouds and pouring rain, in total darkness, where visibility was barely 1.5 meters, on the winding mountain serpentine between Gunungsriti and the Gladak Perak bridge. Such a surreal experience that I never had on a bike. It might sound dangerous, but honestly, I was completely comfortable, and my only regret is not capturing it on video. This stretch of asphalt is breathtaking in clear weather BTW, and you miss out on a lot if you don’t drive it yourself on two wheels.

BROMO

After the bucket-list waterfalls, it was time to move on to the next, and route-wise final destination: Mount Bromo. The road there isn’t bad at all, and it’s actually fun as it leads straight uphill (at ca. 2,5-degree incline) from Probolinggo to the basecamp villages.

One very important thing to know: you go up to roughly 1500 meters above sea level (lookout points are at ca. 2400 m), which means cold. Especially when there’s no sun above your head.

My general rule at a higher altitude is that I’d rather pay more than deal with moldy rooms, cold water, and rundown crap. If anywhere, a freezing environment on a Muslim island is where you need bare-minimum standards.
I stayed at Omah Kayu Bromo because it looked so charming in the photos. And indeed: super cute, photogenic, fairly new cabins in the woods.. except that locals across the road blast crap music all night long and live for their small-dick energy loud-exhaustpipe bikes. So, the seemingly peaceful atmosphere didn’t match reality, and it left me with a sleepy bittersweet face. The bed and terrace are super comfy, but if you decide to stay here, definitely bring earplugs.

I arrived in the afternoon, just in time to check out the sunset. It was definitely cold, but with a vibe. Even though it got increasingly cloudy, I still caught lovely golden-hour light, and a pretty decent sight of smoking Bromo and the iconic grooved slopes of Mt. Batok. Seruni Point was my go to place, and I have to state: I’m surely not fit. I had to stop at every single turn on the way up to gasp for air. It’s steep, and it would probably be less painful if you were only climbing stairs, but walking up that steep asphalt sucks. At least there was no crowd; I only met five people, pretty much suffering the same way as me.

Of course, I had to do the sunrise as well, but after assessing the situation, I decided I didn’t want to walk up that asphalt road again. Seruni Point has a parking area with a wooden lookout that offers pretty much the exact same panorama as the top viewpoint. As I said, I look for shortcuts whenever possible. So I woke up at 5 am (instead of 3) in no rush, drove up to the spot, brought a canned coffee and snacks, and enjoyed the mystical view.. and the people struggling up and down the torturous asphalt.

I was never really interested in climbing mountains; I came for the sight, not for a hike or lava-field jeeping, so after returning to my cozy room, I took a hot shower and a nap, then just went on my merry way.

May is considered low season, so visibility can be tricky, humid, or misty, but there’s a mood in the imperfection. Although I didn’t get the dopest conditions or photos of my life, I lowkey enjoyed it – without that mind-blowing undertone I got at Uluru, for example. Surely this is not the make the most out of it Bromo trip one can have, but I was perfectly content with my version. Not being dramatic is also good enough sometimes; I left Bromo with zero disappointment or dissatisfaction.

Entry: 35.000 IDR village tax during office hours – if you come before or after, no one will charge you. If you go to the main entrance, they’ll charge an additional 255.000 IDR, but there are shortcuts – the road by Semesta Villa is a great no-fee option.

BANYUWANGI

What people may miss is that reaching a destination is only halfway. The painful part is never going there – it’s coming back. I hate driving the same road twice, so if possible, I choose a different route just for variety. Sometimes it’s not worth it, or you end up trading a good one for a worse, but East Java is pretty much the same everywhere. From Bromo, I took the northern road back to Banyuwangi. 5,5 hours of pure driving (about 220 km) where nothing happens – you just sit and proceed. I couldn’t spot anything interesting along the way, and cutting through the mountains might have been scenic, but also wet, and I wasn’t in the mood for poncho riding again.

Since it was a long day, and I don’t sit on ferries in the late afternoon, I spent the night in Banyuwangi. In Aston again, to give some rest to my tired body and a good meal for my stomach.

The next morning, I took off for the final mission: making it back to Bali. An interesting experience for the end tho: after disembarking in Gilimanuk, the police stopped every bike and car to check driver’s licenses. In all my travels across Indonesia, this was the very first time that’s happened. They didn’t differentiate between Indonesians and foreigners, so it wasn’t a full-on bule scam.. still, I’m sure that’s somehow part of it. To make your life easier, if you plan a trip like this, have all your papers sorted.

SUM IT UP

What a trip. What a week. Not to mention all the dirt and exhaust smoke – seeing my white face masks turn black every time convinces me they aren’t completely useless.

I’m glad I did this trip, maybe even better now, with all the travels of the past 8 years in me. I probably managed and took things easier than I would have before – already prepared for everyday conditions, rolling with the circumstances more comfortably, and sometimes lowkey enjoying it. I’m proud of myself for accomplishing such challenges, and I utterly love stunning locals – it happened every time they saw my Bali licence plate.

Taking in all the experiences, immersing in the incredible nature, capturing all kinds of visuals, and engaging in small talk is priceless. And maybe the best part is that you don’t have to plan anything ahead: just go and sort things out day by day or hour by hour, leave space for the unexpected, and know that Indonesia is one of the easiest places to travel. Whatever happens, happens.. it all goes into the memories.

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