To be completely honest, Bromo was only partially interesting to me. What really caught my attention in East Java were the waterfalls. From Jember, I headed straight to Lumajang (the waterfall epicenter), though the journey itself was neither direct nor boring.

AIR TERJUN ANTROKAN

Damn. I have questionable taste in men, but an unbeatable, excellent taste in picking waterfalls. I’m old enough and have seen enough, and I don’t care for any random trickling water on rocks. No. It has to be something, it has to provide something. And despite having high expectations, I still utterly enjoy being surprised.

If you want to skip extra rounds, do not blindly rely on Google because you’ll get lost. I did, but luckily locals helped me get on the right track (this is when small-talk-level Bahasa comes in handy). Search for Warung Kahyangan on the map, look out for the sign, and follow the road until you reach your destination.

The waterfall area is well-maintained, and the rushing water offers a refreshing breeze and a gorg view. It’s off the way of typical foreign tourism, and locals usually colonise places during weekends or late afternoons, so my timing (a Friday morning) couldn’t have been better; aside from a small group of local girls having a picnic, it was empty. Antrokan was a perfect kickoff and gave me the motivation to chase all the natural beauties I had in mind.

Entry: 7.000 IDR + 2.000 IDR for road access or parking (or whatever that extra fee was).

LUMAJANG

Lumajang is essentially another transit city. Anyone interested in Gunung Semeru uses it as a base for day trips. I did the same. I spent two nights here. I originally planned for just one, but Aston was so cozy, and I was in no rush, so I pampered myself to slow down, see as much as I can, soak it all in, and feel nowhere near any time pressure.
I don’t think any other hotel around here is worth staying at. Aston is one of the most reliable hotel chains in the country; regardless of which island you land on, it’s totally affordable, the beds and rooms are comfy, and I’ve only had great food at their restaurants. Highly recommended if you don’t want to gamble with your sleep.

Gunung Semeru is an active volcano that constantly puffs out smoke – sometimes just a whisper, other times a heavy plume. At first, I was worried I wouldn’t catch a clear view, but if you spend at least one morning there when the sky is clear (clouds and volcanic smoke usually build up by the afternoon), you won’t miss it. Also from certain angles, watching the crater give birth to hot, billowy smoke is mesmerizing. Nature truly humbles you; it’s wild just to imagine the sheer force that wipes us away in a second if we don’t pay attention.. and I feel lucky not to have experienced a catastrophe like that (yet). Anyhow, being a volcanic region means a waterfall paradise along the slopes; and that was my reason for coming here in the first place.

WISATA SUMBER TELU

This isn’t just a single waterfall; it’s a fairytale-like waterfall forest hidden behind a neatly landscaped garden. It’s clearly a favorite among locals ponding in the natural pools, and I totally get it: the whole atmosphere is charming, filled with cascades of all sizes and lush bamboo groves. Walk all the way from one end to the other, take a dip in the pools, and savor this hidden gem.

Entry: 25.000 IDR

PANORAMA COBAN SRITI

This wasn’t even on my list. I spotted water cascading down a cliff from a bridge, but the roaring sound intrigued me, so I decided to check if I could get a view from the other side.. and that sight was probably my loudest Ooh my fucking Goood.

I arrived around 5 pm and had the entire place to myself. The overnight rains had definitely surged the water flow, making me feel like I’d landed in Jurassic Park. It was a direct glimpse into the past – exactly how I imagine the Mesozoic era looked. Photos can’t capture the awe; it felt like I was in a dream or a time machine.. seriously waiting for a Pterodactyl to fly past.

Entry: 20.000 IDR for parking at a local house

AIR TERJUN TUMPAK SEWU

I generally avoid mainstream tourist spots for a reason, and Tumpak Sewu is a textbook example of why. These places are usually overhyped and rarely live up to the excitement. You see perfectly angled, heavily edited content online and expect the same magic, only for reality to bitchslap you. Yeah, I know, sometimes we have to take such trips to avoid FOMO, but whenever I put the less popular spots on the other side of the scale, they win every single time.

My first few waterfall choices were so incredible that I had a lingering feeling it wouldn’t get any better. I was right. Highs and lows are part of the journey, but even without bracing for disappointment – my adrenaline rush was stronger anyway – I had to face reality.
It was a Saturday. As I reached the area, I only saw tour buses, jeeps, and bigger crowds than anywhere in the last three days. Tumpak Sewu is the No.1 waterfall and the real ripoff where every tourist goes or gets dragged to. Kinda what I expected, was secretly hoping for better tho. But it is what it is: the true side of mass tourism in Indonesia.

I didn’t fancy trekking all the way down, waiting in line with a queue number for a photo (WTF), and then hauling myself back up, so I just tried to admire the view from the top and took off.

Entry: 100.000 IDR + 10.000 IDR parking (for bike)

Insider tip: If you want to save money and dodge the crowds, head to the opposite side listed as Air Terjun Coban Sewu on the map. It’s the exact same waterfall with a different name, for only 50k.

AIR TERJUN GOA TETES

This one I skipped. Stairs upon stairs, plus ladder climbing. After double-checking the photos, and a group of girls gasping for air at the end didn’t sell the vibe, I decided to look for more rewarding challenges.

However, I wonder how many stops backpacker tours squeeze into a single day, and how much climbing one person has to do. Having done a half-marathon walk the week before, I was on the lazier side of trekking and being very selective about my battles. I’m also a lazy ass (or street smart, depending on the perspective), so I look for shortcuts and usually end up finding great, if not better, spots. I’m gonna stay picky and choose quality over quantity, always.

Entry: 50.000 IDR

AIR TERJUN KABUT PELANGI

Kabut Pelangi saved the disappointment day. The view from the top resting spot was lovely and made me happy to just sit and take it in. It was also midday, so I didn’t mind avoiding driving under the scorching sun. The trek to the waterfall includes hundreds of stairs, and you know, the problem is not necessarily going down.. it’s the climb back up.

Entry: 20.000 IDR panorama / 50.000 IDR trek

PANORAMA KAPAS BIRU

Net bullshit, but a nice stop for a short break. It’s less busy around sunset, but still.. getting a queue number just to snap a photo.. meh. If you want to trek to the waterfall itself, you can access it from the other side for 50k.

Entry: 20.000 IDR (without photo number)

And it wasn’t on my bucket list, but I had the pleasure of riding through dense, massive clouds and pouring rain, in total darkness, where visibility was barely 1.5 meters, on the winding mountain serpentine between Gunungsriti and the Gladak Perak bridge. Such a surreal experience that I never had on a bike. It might sound dangerous, but honestly, I was completely comfortable, and my only regret is not capturing it on video. This stretch of asphalt is breathtaking in clear weather BTW, and you miss out on a lot if you don’t drive it yourself on two wheels.

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