If you’re a first-timer in Asia, starting your journey in Malaysia, and Langkawi happens to be your first sandy island, you’re probably the only one who’ll take it at face value (without judgment), and might even enjoy it. You, and Indians.

I decided to only visit new places this year. Of course, I touch down on old ones too, but the misson’s been completed. However, a major lesson I learn by the end of it is that I hadn’t been to some of these places earlier for good reason. They suck. Maybe it’s just my naivety screaming from the inside, but Langkawi, unfortunately, confirms my hypothesis.

MOVE

There are plenty of rentals available at the airport and ferry, and most accommodations offer scooters to move around freely.

One hint: Don’t rent at the airport if you’re leaving by ferry (and vice versa), or you’ll have extra rounds back and forth when dropping it off (no biggie, just a mild annoyance).

For an island this mundane, the roads are bizarrely good. Amazing drives, you just don’t get anywhere good. Langkawi is about 320 km², and only ca. 16% of it is developed. The rest is lush jungle, monkeys, and street dogs. However, while cruising through the mountains is pure pleasure, the one-way traffic in towns is a serious vibe-killer. I don’t know who did this (I guess laziness won over traffic planning), but it feels like the devil’s work to put people in misery and make them drive in fucking circles.

SEE

Activities are cheap (like island hopping for 40 MYR), but not thrilling. You don’t do things here out of genuine interest, but to kill boredom and justify the time you’ve chosen to waste. Yet joy lies somewhere in the wormwood: Langkawi is one of the few places where you can tick everything off the list in three days, which is strangely satisfying compared to all the experiences you miss out on in other parts of SEA.

The main attraction, and the reason why casual tourists (guilty as charged) come here, is the Sky Bridge. After spending 85 MYR and two hours, I have to say: cute, but overrated. If this is your first suspension bridge and viewpoint of this kind, you’ll love it. If you’ve already been blown away by insane sceneries, I have bad news, bubu: you came too late. There’s definitely a good order to seeing the world, and if you mess it up, some places are better left out.

One hint: While you’re on the road (and have nothing else to do anyway), drive up to Gunung Raya or Puncak Bukit Penarak for sunset. The winding asphalt feels good for the soul, and the views for the eyes.

BEACH

Being an island, Langkawi comes with beaches. Pantai Cenang may seem like an obvious choice, but it’s just like Pattaya in Thailand or Kuta in Bali. Next to it, Pantai Tengah is slightly better, but still too close to the parasailers and jet skis (hard skip).

While more and more coastline disappears from public access (hotels buy and privatize everything), you can still find a few not-so-bad spots. Pantai Tengkorak (Sandy Skulls Beach) is the mainstream go-to, thus expect many people and lots of monkeys (hide your plastic bags!), and check the tide times, as there’s not much beach left at high tide. Further north, the long shore of Tanjung Rhu offers more space, privacy, and calm water for floating and enjoying surviving the heat.

SLEEP

There’s a wide range of options from trashy hostels to luxury resorts. I recommend not going cheap in places like Langkawi, unless you want to deal with moldy, dirty rooms, sewer smells, bed bugs, and anything else you don’t really like sharing your room with.
I stayed at Signature by The Concept, right next to the Maha Tower, and it was perfect for the price (mid-low range): great view, and sunset from the bed.

EAT

The food situation is another kind of hell, especially if you arrive from Penang (IYKYK). There are no typical Langkawi dishes, just the standard Malay-seafood-Indian combo. Night markets happen every day in different locations, so you won’t starve.. it’s just not the best time for your belly. However, two well-known spots elevate the basics and truly feel like highlights:

• Smiling Buffalo – rustic garden café near the airport, with an extended menu, good coffee, and nice staff.
• Co B Diem – coworking-friendly cozy space, with great dishes and coffee.

By the way, coffee. Malaysia doesn’t really produce its own – most of it is imported from South America. Therefore, a cappuccino costs 10–15 MYR, which is outrageous. In Langkawi (maybe thanks to tax perks), a cup is 10 MYR.. still hurts, but at least you can have a decent one.

EPILOGUE

The name Langkawi comes from Malay and Sanskrit roots, meaning reddish-brown eagle. It was first colonized by sea gypsies (orang laut), who created a dense folklore. Besides the original giant tales, there’s a dark legend from the recent past lingering over the island. A woman named Mahsuri was falsely accused of adultery and executed. She was innocent and cursed the land with misfortune and infertility for seven generations.

Depending on how we count, the curse is supposed to end sometime between 1959 and 2029. Locals say it already lifted when the region became popular among tourists.. but I’m sceptical. Business may be booming, but trash piles up, land slips out of local hands, education stagnates, and the overall vibe just feels off. I wonder (in complete ignorance) whether people are any better than their ancestors who killed that woman out of jealousy, and whether the curse is real and will ever end.

The Jewel of Kedah is a 500-million-year-old rock turned into a duty-free zone. Am I the only one tasting the bitterness here?! People not only colonize, but also put a price tag on everything and everyone – tax-free or not, it’s pure gross. Langkawi was never on my route. Years ago, I even considered it a skip-it weekend destination from Penang. I came now only to cross it off the list, and honestly, I wouldn’t have missed much if I hadn’t.

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