Bandung is the third-largest city in Indonesia, and while it’s easy to get lost in a Google search rabbit hole, I’m hesitant to label it an unmissable destination. Some call it the Paris of Java (because of its colonial-era architecture), some hype the food culture, and some praise the creative spirit. But what I see is that half of the stuff on Tokopedia comes from here (manufacturing is big here), it attracts consumer tourism (with endless factories and outlets), and it’s like the crazy rich Jakartans got sick of the capital and moved out to the periphery.

Java has shitloads of money, unevenly propagated, and Bandung seems to be the residential green zone of that wealth. Earlier, it was a resort city for rich plantation owners; now, it’s marketed as a fashionable urban escape. For sure, it’s more breathable and humane than Jakarta and has its perks, but it didn’t tempt me to stay longer than a necessary few days.. which was enough to have a glimpse and jot down my own highlights.

1. WHOOSH

“Bandung is proof that tradition and modernity can go hand in hand.”

Getting to Bandung usually means taking a bus, minivan, or regular train, but honestly, these feel soo last century. Thanks to the Jokowi administration, we can enjoy the (current) one and only high-speed rail in Indonesia, which connects Jakarta to Bandung. The positioning of the train stations is slightly inconvenient (Halim in Jakarta and Tegalluar outside of Bandung), but the 347 km/h speed, the 45 minutes ride, and the fair ticket prices (starting from 275k IDR/one way) make it a must do. High-speed travel is the best, and once you Whoosh, you don’t want to sit on any other train again. (Hopefully, the current government will consider extending the line further east.)

Check for tickets directly on the Whoosh site (avoid RailNinja, because it only lists business class seats), or just show up at the station and grab one at the counter.

Additional tip: No matter how you approach Bandung, one thing will definitely catch your eye: Masjid Raya Al Jabbar. This striking, photogenic mosque (by the same architect behind Masjid 99 Kubah in Makassar) stands out from the landscape and is just a 5-minute drive from Tegalluar Station. Exploring where modern design intersects with tradition is always interesting to explore.. just avoid the midday heat and Islamic holidays.

2. SIP A COFFEE WITH TOTORO

“Morning in Bandung always feels special, accompanied by thin fog and the warming aroma of coffee.”

I’m a huge Ghibli fan, and once I found out about Kurokoffee, I had to check it out. The region is rich in coffee, and Kuro has its own plantation, serving a great selection. It’s a perfect spot for studying or digital nomading, but the real magic is landing straight into Totoroland – cute, cozy, and dear to my heart.

Another great spot worth visiting is Umanari Cafe & Resto – come for the design and stay for the tasty brunch.

3. VISIT AN ART GALLERY

“Bandung, a city where nature and human creativity combine to create beauty.”

Bandung has a solid history and, as a student capital, naturally attracts youthful energy and contemporary vibes. Creativity and new waves are definitely present, though sometimes you have to dig a bit to find them. For tourists, an evening beer along Braga Street is the standard activity, but many probably overlook the best “attraction” of the street: Grey Art Gallery. The city has quite a few galleries, which I always take as a good sign (no joke, I’m starving for culture in Indonesia), and this one didn’t disappoint. In fact, it exceeded my expectations. If you’re also not the type who enjoys staring at monuments, feed your eyes with excellent artwork and your soul with a refreshing dose of inspiration.

4. LEARN SWEAR WORDS

“Bandung teaches us to continue to learn and develop, regardless of age and background.”

Probably not what the quote means, but here we are. The official language (Bahasa Indonesia) is an artificial language created to dissolve the Babylonian chaos and bring the tribes of the 17000+ islands on the same page. Consequently, it’s more sterile than the local accents. Luckily, Sundanese (a prominent spoken one in Java) is juicy AF. Many “swear” expressions spread and slipped into everyday speech throughout the country. Which brings me to my new favorite word that I don’t dare to use: bangsat (means bastard). It’s nothing special to Western ears, but it has the same effect as cunt for Brits.. or even worse because no one really expects a foreigner to use it. There’s always something to learn from the locals, and they spill the T happily once they get out of their shy zone.

5. DAY TRIP TO KAWAH PUTIH

“The mountains of Bandung are not just scenery, but silent witnesses to the history of this city.”

So again, why would anyone stop in Bandung? Exactly why the Dutch once did: plantations.

The surrounding mountains – with their fertile soil and cool climate – are perfect for coffee and tea and serve as great tourist destinations. For some reason, we love walking among tea shrubs, don’t we?! And where there’s tea, there’s usually something else to see and do.

Java’s main attractions are the volcanos, and Mount Ijen stands on the top with its blue fire and sulfuric lake. I’ve considered doing the mandatory Ijen trip for ages but keep skipping it – I don’t feel like climbing half the night in crowds when it looks better from a plane’s window seat. Also, it’s pretty unhealthy. The good news is that Ijen isn’t the only sulfuric crater. People put Bandung on their map because of Kawah Putih, alias the White Crater. From my POV, same experience, less pain, sounds like a good deal.

I’m used to visiting places alone, but I decided that a group tour would be more fun here. Best decision. I stayed at D&D Guesthouse, which turned out to be a favored place for European backpackers, and spent a full-day trip with lovely people, cool spots, fun activities, and lots of laughs. Sitting behind someone on a bike, not having to plan everything myself, and sharing the experience was unusual but refreshing. Besides visiting the famous crater and wandering through the plantations around, we also stopped by an old railway bridge, crossed the Rengganis Suspension Bridge (twice) just to get covered in mud and soak in the hot springs, and raced with golesat (downhill cart ride) at Patenggang Lake.

Every accommodation in Bandung offers tours, but if you want a recommendation, I vote for D&D

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