Most of my travel stories start with the same trigger feeling: I have to get out of Bali. Since my overseas plans didn’t give the vibe this time, I was poking around domestic flights. My first thought was Jakarta and take it from there, but for some reason, the tickets cost the same as Bangkok lately, and that just feels sooo rude. Then, a cheap ticket popped up to Semarang. Frankly, I haven’t heard of this place before. I pulled up the map, saw it was on Java, and bought the flight without thinking further. My #balilife felt soul-numbingly dull; I craved some real excitement, something random.. which is actually a great feature of the country – travelling is safe and easy, and you’ll find the way no matter what.

Java is the fifth largest island in Indonesia and the most densely populated in the world. That said, it keeps you entertained (or annoyed, depending on the side of the elephant) and offers plenty of spots to explore for both long wanders and short getaways. Although I couldn’t even memorize the name of the city until my flight (#zerofucksgiven), I realized upon check-in what a perfect destination I had booked.

RARE TAMARIND

Semarang is the capital of Central Java, but it feels different from the others. Usually, Indo cities hit you hard at first (size, grime, the way of living, people staring at you, you name it), but not this one; I found it surprisingly nice, calm, and friendly. It’s even been voted the cleanest tourist destination in SEA, which is a big flex, especially in Indonesia.
Fun fact: The name Semarang comes from the Javanese words asem (tamarind tree) and arang (rare). According to history, tamarind was unique here in the 16th century.

WALK THE TALK

Usually, my first mission in a new city is renting a bike. But after a few chats with rental places, I quickly remembered: this is good ol’ Java – higher prices than other islands, additional weekend fees, and an unashamed bule (foreigner) ripoff (why should I pay three times more than a local for the same bike?!). I wanted to get out of my comfort zone, and the backseat of the Grab cars felt comfortable enough, so I decided to do something out of character: intentionally not renting a bike and not driving during my trip.
Not gonna lie, I had some challenging moments. First, depending on others and always waiting for rides is not my thing. Second, you cannot cross the streets – this city is really not for walking. And third, the climate is inhuman (at least in September) – scorching hot and humid during the day, followed by a massive shower around sunset.

Grab works very well, and besides Jakarta, this was the only place I consistently ordered cars over bikes (even for a 5-minute ride) because it’s super cheap and much better sitting in a cool box than getting dirty and sweaty on two wheels. And interestingly, I had more female drivers than males, which is (still) a rarity in Asia.
Pro tip: Add a credit card to the app to save time and money because drivers don’t like to carry change, and getting in and out will be a snap.

SLEEPING BEAUTY

As for accommodation, it’s easy to find, but I recommend choosing one in the old town so you can walk around without hassle. Since Kotta Hotel (my first pick) was fully booked, I tried Bobobox for the first time – the Sky Double capsule is perfect for one person, and if you just need a comfy place to crash without fuss.

PLATE DATE

Now, the food. Plenty of options, but heavily meat-based.

For breakfast or brunch, Eastman is a winner. It’s connected to Tyler’s, so you don’t have to leave from morning coffee to a smoked dinner. The omurice is delish, the yuzu iced tea is dope, the coffee is good, and the sweet pastries are perfect for takeaway.

Another great spot is 42 Bakeshop. Semarang has the same problem as many Indonesian cities: nothing good opens before 10am (generally speaking). Luckily, there are always a few exceptions, so anyone who wants to eat and have their morning coffee at 8am will survive. 42 was conveniently close, within walking distance from my accommodation, and surprised me with excellent local coffee (the beans are from Ijen and Semarang) and tasty food.. and I really liked the interior, too.

Then there’s Spiegel, the hype of Kota Lama. It dominates a big old corner building that feels homey for a European (running into a place like this in Southeast Asia is always strange). I had a very strong Déryné flash sitting at the table, and after finding out it was founded by Austro-Hungarian businessmen, I knew why.
Although I’m still not convinced about Indonesian sommeliers (Indonesia and wine are not the first pairings I think of), we managed to find the right wine to go with my margarita pizza.. which wasn’t bad (neither wow).

EYE CANDY

Being a major port city means many layers of influence – apart from Dutch colonization, mainly Chinese and Indian. Semarang has shades of North Jakarta and flashes of Jogja, but ultimately reminds me of Makassar. It’s a youthful city where the universities attract international students, creating a great mix – contemporary art, fancy coworking spaces, and studying cafés spice up the historic streets.

As a tourist, you won’t feel the full scale of the city because most of what you’ll want to see is clustered in the central area, where everything’s pretty close and easy to reach. Technically, you can check out the main sights in a day, but I’d recommend staying longer. Semarang has a low-key charm – cute, smooth, and perfect to take it slow. Plus, there’s much to explore beyond the city: mountain ranges, tea and coffee plantations, waterfalls, and even a dramatic Chinese pagoda on a hilltop. While I don’t have first-hand experience yet (I didn’t have a vehicle and not gonna do trips with a random driver), there are for sure gems among the tons of crappy amusement parks.
Pro tip: Filter the sights and go where you don’t see plastic mushrooms and kids.

• KOTA LAMA

The heart of the city, a compact arts and cultural zone with single-story colonial buildings. While strolling the streets, grab an ice cream and definitely visit the Contemporary Art Gallery – despite its small size, it houses high-quality modern art.

And if you’re looking for something to do after dinner, you’ll find a billiard salon or table on every corner – playing pool seems to be an integral part of the lifestyle.

• CHINATOWN

Smelly markets, Chinese temples, good food, tea and tobacco heaven, and locals looking at you like you’re lost. Definitely stop by Zhènghé Diāoxiàng.

• KAMPUNG PELANGI

The Rainbow Village aka the colourful favela of Java – painted walls, cobblestones, and a great workout all the way to the top of the hill. This is also the florist district (with a cemetery nearby), so if you visit early in the morning, you’ll catch the deliveries and enjoy the intense scent of beautiful flowers instead of the canals.

• SAM POO KONG

The signature Chinese temple complex. It doesn’t hit the same as in other neighbouring countries, but it’s still a peaceful spot to kill an hour, especially around sunset.

In my reading, Semarang is the city of meat, billiards, and female drivers. I don’t know if I’ve seen everything the city has to offer, but I’d love to spend some more time here to figure it out.

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