Last visited in May 2024

The more I travel in Indonesia, the more I’m convinced that Bali is the overrated underbelly of the country. It’s good but not great, and since the big reopening, it’s gotten worse.

Sumba caught my eye last year when I visited Rote and West Timor. I kept it in the back of my mind while life happened and took me in other directions. As I can’t stay in Bali for more than 2 months in a row, I felt the urge to go somewhere, preferably before the rainy season begins. This is how I bought a one-way ticket to Tambolaka.

I prefer open-ended trips because they reduce time pressure and give me the freedom to immerse myself in the environment and explore as much as I feel like.. or to change my mind whenever I want. Although I pinned many places on my map in advance, I wasn’t prepared for what I would find here, and I definitely will come back because I didn’t visit every spot I wanted. To say the least, Sumba blew my mind every day.

WAITABULA

Sumba is not that small and is basically divided into two major parts. Accordingly, it has two airports: Tambolaka and Waingapu. Waingapu is the largest town and main entry point (air and sea), and more preferred by tourists since it’s easier to find accommodation, transportation, guides, etc. Tambolaka is actually the airport of Waitabula. The town is smaller, with limited options, but the flight from Bali is 30 minutes shorter, and the tickets cost half as much (if you want to stick to a budget or just don’t like spending unnecessary money, consider this). I chose Tambolaka as my starting point and was happy with this decision. To spoil it – this is my favourite part of the island.

Without the luxury of options, I rented a scooter from Afiv Rent. They are right next to the airport, and I got a new 125cc Vario for 200k/day (the longer you rent, the cheaper). Vinzent (the owner) is such a helpful guy, and you can discuss everything with him via WhatsApp (he also speaks English).

As usual, I had a pre-booked bike (the most important thing) but no accommodation. I prefer to see the places first, and since I arrived on the morning flight, I had plenty of time to sort things out. The town and surrounding areas offer many hotels and resorts, it all depends on your pocket and needs. However, be prepared for high and low season prices, and finalize your bookings online – the walk-in prices are fixed and higher than on booking sites, and the hotels have no interest in negotiating if you stay longer.

I ended up staying at Hotel Pasola. It is also close to the airport but quiet due to no air traffic. The room was comfortable, not particularly clean, but no wonder since the staff spent more time on their phones than anything else. The price matched the time I spent in the room.

The biggest surprise was the food I found here. Whenever I travel east, I mentally prepare myself for nasi campur and mie goreng, but Sumba has its sweet little secrets. Namely, two restaurants in Tambolaka: Gula Garam and Makan Dulu. Right after landing, I headed to Gula Garam to hide from the midday sun, get some work done, and have lunch, of course. The main profile is pizza, but the menu offers tasty Indonesian and Western dishes.

Food recommendation: gado-gado (exceptional and huge portion)

Makan Dulu, on the other hand, is something hard to find even in Bali. I can only speak in superlatives because it’s indeed a unique experience. The Sumba Hospitality Foundation operates this restaurant as a training place for its students – you get first-class service and incredible tastebud pampering in a stylish bamboo-designed environment. I was hooked, and so will you. Everyone will find their right plate (from vegans to meat eaters), drinks, and desserts from the Sumbanese menu. It was also special for me because I could finally try papaya flowers and banana blossoms, something I had wanted to do for years (but for some strange reason, I never got around to it). And you know what makes Makan Dulu even more extra? – It’s inexpensive (no joke).

Food recommendation: everything

Finally, here are the highlights of Southwest Sumba:

• PANTAI KITA

Maybe because I was craving beach time, maybe because it was my first beach on my first day, but I loved it. About 8 km long empty shore, light (almost white) coloured soft sand, some reefs, no waves, and cotton candy sunsets.

• PANTAI KAWONA

It’s the best in Southwest Sumba. Blindingly white fine sand, azure water, baby waves (best at mid-tide), and although facing east, the thousand shades of soothing blue will leave you speechless at sunset, too.

• WEE MANEBA

Since Biak, I have a high interest in visiting blue lakes (telaga biru) across Indonesia. Finding this one was such a ride. Everything started with waking up with a foggy mind, so I needed a drive and a destination. To the lake, you can take the easy, paved road, or you can be me, not trusting Google Maps and ending up in the middle of the forest, passing by small settlements where locals look at you like you are lost (aren’t we all, ultimately?). Well, I blame it all on Google because it got confused twice and made me super annoyed, so I had to figure it out on my own. Not surprisingly, this setup matched my actual state of mind – what I had to go through literally manifested itself in the physical realm. I went into the forest with misery and came out purified. This may sound abstract to many, but this is how we create our reality and how magic happens.

And the blue lake.. First, I was glad it wasn’t a ghost spot (you know, those places marked on the map that don’t exist or are actually somewhere else). Second, it’s stunning, but I haven’t seen that much garbage in any other lake. So even in the crazy heat, it’s not tempting to take a dip.. although it would be lots of fun.

• WAIKURI LAGOON

It is one of the five must-visit places in Sumba, and indeed marvellous. The walking path around the lagoon offers a beautiful view from every corner, and the water is transparent turquoise and refreshing. The best time to visit is on weekdays (local families colonize the entire area on weekends), and choose the afternoon if you want to skip the tourist buses.

• PANTAI MANDORAK

This hidden gem is next to Waikuri. The colours of the rocks and the view from the cliff are gorg, and how the waves approach the small cove and kiss the white sand in the tiny bay is simply magnetic.

My visit was undoubtedly memorable for the locals, too. Not only was I desperate for a coffee, but this bule woman (me) told them she didn’t like or want kids. And this statement rocked their whole world. As more and more people showed up in those 30 minutes, the news spread like wildfire, so I’m positive the village had its rumour for the day.

• PANTAI RATENGGARO

The crocodile beach. This part of the island is well known as the territory of the salties, so think twice before running into the water. The beach belongs to a traditional village (kampung), so you must pay an entrance fee. I would skip this place if you are not interested in visiting a human zoo or are not good at dealing with people yelling for your money. I only put it as a highlight because the river delta looks dope.

• MAREHA CAPE

Life hack: How to drive through a swarm of locusts. I’ve already observed this in the Australian outback, but there’s a big difference between watching them from the car and feeling them on your body. Thanks to my advanced skills, I learned the easy way to not drive too fast when I find myself in the middle of an insect cloud. If you go really slowly, they are smart and have time enough to get out of your way, and no one will get hurt. But if you drive fast, they’ll definitely splash all over you.. and that’s gross.

An easy dirt road leads to the cape. Just park under a tree and follow the path to the cliff. The view is unreal – like The Twelve Apostles in Australia, only better. There is a good chance that a group of boys will accompany you with machetes. It feels questionable, but they are (probably) harmless. If you speak a little Bahasa and give them some money to show you the way (and cut the bush in front of you), everything will be fine.

As I started the post, I liked this side of the island the most. In my experience, a calm atmosphere, fewer people, friendlier locals, incredible beaches, and stunning sunsets await you here. But I’m not a person who does half islands, so had a lot more to explore.

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