I don’t have a strict or written-down bucket list. I usually go with the flow, find things of my interest (and forget about them), hunt them down (or change my mind), and then find something new (ADHD rulz). However, one thing has been on my imaginary list since 1999 – watching a total solar eclipse.
Back then, I was in the right country, and everything was given to experience this magic. But because I let others lead, or better said, I waited for others, I missed out. Friends bitched about going to one of the best locations, and my parents were not interested in the eclipse at all (sometimes, I really doubt the blood relation). Lesson learned for life: never ever wait for others. If I want something, I do it. Otherwise, simply nothing will happen, and that would be a regret that I don’t allow myself.
Since 1999, I just haven’t been in the right place or conditions to travel. The solar eclipse first came up as a plan in 2020.. but then we know exactly why I couldn’t travel to Chile. So it got a bit forgotten, as always before. Also, Indonesia kept me busy, and I didn’t feel the urge to fill any void.
Just when I said out loud that I wasn’t going anywhere for a while (classic me, lol), I hopped to Thailand for a mini holiday. I clearly remember sitting at Boost in Phuket with my butterfly pea tea and scrolling on my phone when the news of the upcoming hybrid solar eclipse popped up. First, I found the Ningaloo Eclipse, which is in Australia, and since that’s quite close, my interest arose. So I googled the details and boom boom boom. When I looked at the path of totality and zoomed in, I realized it was right over Biak (Papua); I sipped from my tea and started smiling that No fucking way that this really gonna happen. So, on the plane back to Bali, I started planning my next trip. This is how I don’t go anywhere for a while.
I’d wanted to visit Biak for a long time, and finally the time had come. Unfortunately, this time coincided with the end of Ramadan, which always means busy flights and high ticket prices. But I had a greater interest than whining about how much it would cost me. After spending 7,5 million IDR on my return ticket, I felt broke but super excited. And the excitement slowly shifted into something crazy.
A few weeks before the trip, old friends reached out to ask about the entry situation to Indonesia. Then it turned out that they were not only coming to Bali but also to Biak. And we booked the same accommodation. It felt surreal. I planned the trip alone, and the last thing I expected was to see white people there.. and definitely not people I know. Everything was coming together, pointing in the direction that this would be BIG. I couldn’t help but think it would be a life-changing experience, so I just watched the events unfold with wide, happy eyes.
My journey to Biak went smoothly (the flight was 6 hours), I just highly recommend not flying with a cold as the mucus in the ears is shit painful (yeah, I got sick three days before my flight, but it was no way I would cancel this trip).
A friend pinned Snudi Paradise on the map because it was in the middle of the totality line. Since I arrived a few days before the others, I had time to explore and confirmed that this location looked perfect.
Funnily, we thought it might be packed with people, so we should go there early to colonize our space. We arrived around 11 am (less than an hour before the eclipse) and it was empty. We saw tourists in the town and wondered where they went when this pier was technically the best spot. Well. Apparently, everyone gathered at the official festival in the town, got caught in the rain, and had a worse view of the eclipse because of the clouds. While we set up our base at Snudi Paradise, turned on the music, made sure everyone was drinking well, and repeatedly jumped in the refreshing crystal-clear water.. and it didn’t rain.
We cast all our witchcraft and prayed to get the clouds out of the picture, and just like that, for those 76 seconds, there was a hole in the slightly overcast sky to watch the eclipse in all its glory. The only thing we don’t have is footage of the event. It was one of those precious and immersive experiences in life that you’d perceive with your own eyes rather than through the lens of a camera. It was so real and had to be experienced in a real way. No regrets. I jumped and screamed and cried and danced around. I couldn’t believe it was reality. The island, the scenery, the people, and the total eclipse itself.
This day had to be shared. Although I planned everything just for myself, it was not meant to be experienced alone. The entire trip was a beautiful affirmation from the Universe; when I’m aligned with my path, what is in alignment with me will find its way. This cannot be controlled, only accepted and appreciated. And that’s what I do. The originally planned 2-3 hours ended up in a full day on the pier. We only left after sunset, overloaded with gratitude and happiness (and vodka).
Even tho Hungarians took over the island (I don’t think any other foreign nation was present in this amount), we always had some Papuan company, too. They were coming and going, but it just added to the fun. Without any verbal communication (language barriers), we existed in perfect symbiosis.
Someone once told me I cannot wear a bikini and swim in Papua. One thing I learned this day (among many) is that their fear is not mine. I can do things. I do things. And as long as I take it easy and cool, every little thing gonna be alright.
Also, new words have been added to my vocabulary. One is gerhana (eclipse) matahari (sun), obviously. The other is kasumasa, which means thank you in the Biak language. And this is my new favourite word – it also sounds similar to Hungarian köszimöszi, a playful form of the word köszönöm, meaning thank you. How cool is that?!
It took 24 years to fulfill this dream (time is just an illusion), and it couldn’t have been planned any better. However, watching the solar eclipse didn’t get off my list.. I think it just really got on it. This first time was a solid start, and I will never forget it, but because the sight is addictive, I’m sure if I get the chance, the first time won’t be the last.
All I can say now is Kasumasa Biak.






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