The good thing is that Khao Lak is only an hour’s drive from North Phuket.

The bad thing is that I don’t know if I could feel lonelier anywhere else.

In my personal journey, there is no other place so silently controversial: gorgeous and making me miserable AF. But before diving into the details, I have a few words about driving in Thailand.

I love the dissimilarities of Asian countries, and one of the core differences is their driving style. The main characteristic of traffic in Thailand is that cars dominate the roads, drive fast, and generally don’t care much. In contrast – or maybe because of this – bikes go insanely slow, which feels more dangerous than safe. The biggest challenge for me was getting used to the silent traffic – Thais don’t use horns. In Indonesia, everyone makes noise, so you learn what each honking means and know what’s happening without looking around. I drive with my ears (too), and I really miss it here. Super confusing, and it’s like you don’t know what’s going on because no one is “talking”.

Thai people are very polite or hesitant (or just slow, IDK) and literally get stuck where two more Indonesian bikes would pass easily. And on top of everything, there are actual rules, traffic lights, and radars on the roads. I haven’t seen these things for ages and have no clue about speed limits. (Thailand is 47th, and Indonesia is 115th in the ranking of traffic accidents, so I’m also not entirely convinced about these regulations.)

Khao Lak is part of the Phang Nga province, one of the most stunning areas in Thailand, with must-visit spots such as Phang Nga Bay (with the famous James Bond Island), Ko Yao Yai, and Surin and Similan Islands. I haven’t visited all the places yet, my focus now was on Khao Lak only. However, on the way there, I highly recommend taking the scenic route and detouring to Phang Nga Bay, at least to enjoy this breathtaking view:

The contrast between the high and low seasons in this region is wild. In the low season (visited at the end of May), Khao Lak looks like a ghost town. Bang Niang Road is a bit more active at dinnertime, but during the day, you’ll only find empty streets, closed restaurants, and dirty beaches (some even closed for these months). However, in the high season (checked in March), business is full-on, and you’ll run into crowds almost everywhere.

EAT

Since I’ve made relatively short visits, I haven’t devoured the area, but still had my favorite places.

• Qcumber: Healthy, delicious comfort food, lots of salads, super cute owner, and cozy atmosphere.

• The Eight Room: The best coffee in town, amazing breakfast, and the go-to spot for my daily butterfly pea fix.

STAY

LOW SEASON

I stayed at Baan Krating Khao Lak Resort because of this view:

Well, arriving in the rain didn’t make the same impression, but luckily it got better. Kinda shockingly, I was the only guest, which, apart from the peacefulness, added a lot to my loneliness.

And here comes the T. I live my life the way I do because I’m not willing to participate in the shitshow we call our reality. I try to separate myself as much as possible, but inner peace on one side is isolation on the other. The gap deepens with every step, and I find myself completely alone all the time. My Khao Lak getaway was supposed to be fun, but the time and setting just built up my later depression.

HIGH SEASON

I had the opportunity to enjoy Apsara‘s hospitality. The hotel part is not my vibe, but I can recommend the private pool villas (only the restaurant could be better).

Even tho I had my fun this time (kinky wink), I felt enormous bittersweet emptiness. Everything was given to a perfect holiday, and I only could pretend to be fine, but feeling shit inside. Honestly, at this point, I don’t get it. Is it the place, is it me, or both..? Either way, in the end, it just makes me wanna leave.

DO

The main activity in Khao Lak is beaching. You come here to enjoy the sand and the sea, to relax after the intense sightseeing of your Thailand trip, and to work on your tan. Theoretically.

LOW SEASON

Beach is not gonna happen. If you’re lucky enough to have a few sunny days, that’s great, but the wind, waves, and washed-out trash won’t give you the best time of your life.

What you can do is visit the Sea Turtle Conservation Center (located on the naval base grounds), a waterfall (Namtok Lampee is a typical tourist attraction but lovely), or wake up early and watch the sunrise at the Khao Khai Nui Viewpoint (it’s a no-go after rain).

HIGH SEASON

Beach, beach, beach, and sunset. You can pick a different beach and water activity for each day, and the coastline is so long that you can have some private time if you want to stay away from people.

Insider tip: Around 4pm, they bring the elephants to Pakarang Beach to walk and have fun in the water. If you happen to be there, it’s a cute (and free) experience.

I see and know that Khao Lak is a perfect destination to indulge in the best that Thailand has to offer.. maybe I just came here at the wrong time (but twice?). I don’t say never ever again, but if I’ve learned nothing else, I’ll surely schedule my return for the peak season.

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