Last visited in December 2024

Chiang Rai is the overlooked sidekick of Chiang Mai, the forever second. I may be wrong, but is there anyone who has only visited C’Rai? This small city is pretty intriguing and will surprise you if you are willing to spend more than two days here (the average recommendation to checklist the mainstream sights). So, let me share three catchy reasons why the northernmost corner of Thailand is worth visiting.

1. GODDESS OF MERCY

Chiang Rai is the city of gold and creepy sculptures. There’s something excessively bizarre and kitschy here that is hard to explain or justify. Just look at the famous clock tower. Am I the only one seeing Cheshire Cat in it?

And the signature white temple, Wat Rong Khun? It is overrated, and I only figured this on my second visit. The first time, you are blinded by the millions of mirrors and shocked (strong word) by the ugly creatures (which are actually our desires, spoiler alert). Reading about the story and concept will put the temple in context, and I definitely don’t mean to diminish the artistic achievement, but it’s still overrated and just a crowd magnet.

But hey, if you are into nonsense exaggerated artwork, don’t miss Wat Phra That Doi Khao Kwai (on the hill, with a nice view of the city in the valley) and Wat Saeng Kaeo Phothiyan (on the way between C’Rai and C’Mai).

Besides all the creative madness, you’ll find plenty of pure beauty, too. One is the blue temple, Wat Rong Suea Ten. They sell me everything (guilty as charged, and I don’t care) with butterfly pea – one of the core reasons I like Thailand is this blue flower. And guess what, the blue wat and the blue sticky rice ice cream are a match made in heaven. Like, tell you’re in Thailand without telling you’re in Thailand. Anyhow, the temple looks charming inside and out and couldn’t be more blue.

The highlight of why I would put Chiang Rai on the top of the travel list is Wat Huay Pla Kang. It’s just as unusual as any other temple in the city, but it stands out of all of them (and not just because it stands on a hill). As far as I know, this is the newest temple complex in the region, and it feels like they have perfected the knowledge gained by all the others.

The ultimate time to visit is after sunset. No tourists, the temples are empty and quiet, and the illumination will leave you in awe. The 9 stories pagoda in the bright, woody yellow light resembles the Tower of Babel. The temple is pure white and insanely detailed, and the constant playing chanting makes the atmosphere mystical. I root for this Lanna-Chinese fusion (well, actually, for all kinds of fusion with Chinese elements). The enormous statue of Guan Yin (Goddess of Mercy, not Buddha) radiates overwhelming tranquility and warmth. So beautiful.

This is the perfect place if you are looking for outer and inner peace while letting yourself be blown away by aesthetics and beauty. I have some questions about the disco ball with the speakers in the back, tho.

And did you know that Chiang Rai has a contemporary art museum? Now you know, and I urge you to put it on your checklist.

2. OPIUM

Chiang Rai province is a well-known destination if you want to immerse yourself in the history of the Golden Triangle. The border of the three countries (Thailand-Myanmar-Laos) is best reached from C’Rai. I don’t suggest you get involved in any opium situation (only if you want to), but take a road trip to the Mekong River. As always, I recommend renting a bike and going on an adventure rather than getting yourself transported by car.

And that said, take road trips in any direction (Doi Tung is an excellent choice – just dress up warm!). The playfulness of the mountains and valleys is gorg, and nothing beats cruising on the curvy mountain roads (not necessarily with a destination) – even better when you’re playing cat-and-mouse with the storm clouds (been there, done that).

3. PIZZA

Yes, pizza. Chef Sasa (the owner and chef) moved from Naples to Chiang Rai and treats you to the damn best pizza and panna cotta in the north.

But that’s not all. There are other options that your belly will love. Next door to Chef Sasa, Accha Authentic Indian Cuisine is also outstanding – I’m not the hugest fan of Indian food but always appreciate tasty ones. Breakfast Factory is the busy hub for good reasons: great food, coffee, and price. Good Carb is the go-to place to get some work done. Book’s Cafe & Bistro has a cozy, kinda gentleman’s club vibe with great dinner and wine. Also, the must-try street foods are pun pao and patongko (the good ones are pinned on the map).

The region is famous for its coffee and tea plantations. In regards to coffee, Yoddoi and Doi Chang are the major brands, with nice aromatic beans, but you can find good coffee everywhere. However, the big theme is tea, and one of my favorites is Sawanbondin Farm & Tea House. They offer a wide selection of heavenly teas and delicious cakes. It’s definitely, the happy place to go where you can challenge all your senses to find your taste in tea – because there is much more than black-green-white.

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