Last visited in December 2024

Chiang Mai is the hotspot and the No. 1 reason to visit north Thailand. It’s the mecca of the Lanna Thai culture – pampers your eyes with beautiful designs, your soul with rich culture, and your belly with delicious cuisine. You can rush through the basics in 3 days (as widely recommended), but the real Chiang Mai starts where the mainstream tourism ends. If you spend an extended time here, you have the chance to immerse yourself in the uniqueness of the city.

I don’t list all the mandatory and known places and activities; instead, I give you an insight into my way of Chiang Mai-ing.

ESSENTIALS

Getting to Chiang Mai depends on where you are arriving from. The city has an international airport, and train and bus stations, so there are plenty of options. I used to fly, but now I only take a night VIP bus from Bangkok. The buses are super comfortable, no need to rearrange your bags (due to airline restrictions), it’s easy to sleep all the way, and you’ll arrive in C’Mai early in the morning – perfect timing for a good breakfast and coffee.

You have various options to get around the city; walking, jumping on a songthaew, trying the signature tuk-tuk, calling a Grab, or renting your own vehicle. Because of the average traffic situation, I don’t vote for cars; bikes are always the best (good luck to change my mind on this). The daily prices are the same everywhere (250-300 THB), but not all rental gives weekly/monthly discounts. Cat Motors (in the heart of the city) is popular and reliable, the hogs are in good condition, and you can make a good deal.

By the way, be aware that the Chiang Mai police are among the strictest in Thailand. The city wall area has one-way traffic, and bikes sometimes feel the urge to cheat at turns (guilty as charged). But not here. Every afternoon, the police stations at the main shortcut points, stopping and fining everyone who doesn’t follow the rules. They are not keen to find a reason to charge you, only look for general things – at least they don’t differentiate between locals and tourists. So memorize the checkpoints, don’t cheat with the left turns, always wear a helmet, keep your international license with you, and you’ll be fine. (I had a pretty nonsense situation with the police in Chiang Mai; how they operate is more hilarious.. but better not to poke the bear.)

The city is packed with accommodation and you can find whatever you are looking for – from hotels to hostels, from daily to monthly rentals. Depending on your budget and how much time you plan to spend in your room, consider booking a place with a pool – it can be suffocating during the day, and all you will crave is jumping into the refreshing water. One place I wholeheartedly recommend is Chada House (no pool). The owner is a lovely lady, the street is quiet yet close to everything (even on foot), and the rooms are simple but cozy and clean.

SIGHTSEEING

There’s not a dull day in and out of Chiang Mai. Besides the top must-see spots, there are plenty of less-known treasures. You can go on day trips in every direction to visit temple complexes, Karen villages, and elephant sanctuaries. I came to Chiang Mai for the first time in 2015, and of course, I ticked off all the must-sees on the list. Since then, I’ve been more interested in exploring the slow local life, spiced up with short trips and finding hidden gems.. sitting in one place is not my way of living.

Doi Inthanon is one of the most famous national parks and looks like Wonderland. Even though it’s massively touristy, it cannot be missed. You can go on an organized tour or choose the smart way and visit on your own; it’s best early in the morning, before everyone else, or at sunset, but it can be crowded.. the colours will make up for it, tho.

And if you’re in the area, don’t miss Mae Ya Waterfall (you can visit both sites with one ticket). It’s one of the most stunning falls I’ve seen in the North, and although people come and go, you can find a spot to enjoy its majesty.

Doi Suthep is another popular spot and extremely photogenic with all the shiny gold. However, I personally like Wat Pha Lat (on the same road) much more. It’s a hidden temple in the middle of the jungle, with tiny waterfalls and magical scenery.

I visited so many temples that my brain burned out, and after a point, I couldn’t take any more. You will see every ancient temple in the city while walking, but there are two that you should definitely not miss. Wat Sri Suphan is the discriminative (for men only) silver temple. The incredibly detailed craftsmanship will leave you speechless, and the cold metallic glow at sunset is out of this world. Wat Phantao is a very atmospheric Lanna-style teak temple. Spending even just a few minutes inside will fill you up with peace.

If you need a green escape but not a hike, Huay Tueng Thao Reservoir is a great choice. It’s very tranquil around the lake, and the huge animal sculptures will give you some entertainment. From the lake, definitely visit the Samoeng Viewpoint for sunset. It doesn’t matter if the sky is clear or gloomy cloudy, it’s one of the best places to sit down and stop life for a bit.

Another adorable destination and getaway from midday heat is the Tweechol Botanical Garden. Stop at Nexterday Cafe on the way, grab a cappuccino and an amazing banana bread for takeaway, and enjoy them in the garden. I’m obsessed with cacti, and not only the succulent house but the entire botanical garden is pretty, extensive, and well-maintained (and there’s also a swimming pool).

LIFESTYLE

Art and culture dominate in this region and don’t stop at the temples. Cool street walls, creative cafes, and art galleries add to the C’Mai living.

Baan Kang Wat (and next to it, Lansieow) is a small craft village with an incredibly captivating atmosphere – shops, cafes, bookstores, workshops, weekend markets, and live music.

I recommend putting MAIIAM also on your map. This contemporary art museum has interesting exhibitions, and the entrance with the mirror wall is pretty extra. Also nearby is the Bo Sang Umbrella Village, where you can get an insight into the art of umbrella making and buy some souvenirs.

DIGITAL NOMADING

The Chiang Mai area is one of my favourites in Thailand. The only problem why I don’t see myself moving here is the wast distance to the beaches. Not everyone is a beach person, and they don’t need to look any further to find the perfect base. Coworking spaces are usually not my thing. I don’t need any office-kinda-vibe setting; I prefer to go somewhere where I can eat and drink and enjoy myself while checking on my laptop from time to time. I can’t explain myself, but I like the cafés next to self-service laundries, so while I wait for my clothes to clean themselves, I can sip a coffee and get some work done.

If your accommodation doesn’t have a pool, De Lanna Hotel is a place to go; many hotels offer day passes (also dedicated to digital nomads), and the city has a few swimming pools. It’s not the same as going down to a beach but having this much water in the mountains makes C’Mai even more appealing.

FOOD

Where you eat, work, and socialize highly depends on which neighborhood you sleep in. Chiang Mai is not big but can feel huge if local patriotism kicks in, which definitely happens after some time. I changed my base a few times to get a closer look at the different districts. As for me, if I have a bike, I don’t really care if the good places are out of my area – I’m a lazy ass and will drive instead of walking anyway.

When it comes to food, Chiang Mai isn’t the cheapest, but it’s one of the few places in Thailand that offers an almost unlimited selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes. You can eat delicious, healthy, and high-quality food here.. you just have to find it, as many places are trendy but don’t meet the expectations. It’s impossible to list all the cafés and restaurants, and there are always new openings, but these are my regulars:

• The best of the best: Aum Vegetarian Restaurant

No need to overexplain; it’s brilliantly delicious. I didn’t even try the original khao soi for a long time because here you get a perfect vegetarian version. And not just that: blue sticky rice with mango, all kinds of noodle and rice dishes.. damn, the whole menu is excellent. The soul food, the ambiance, and the lovely family make this the best place.

• For breakfast: Mellowry Cafe

Frankly, the mainstream cafés are not the best – either the food, the coffee, the price, or the friendliness of the staff is not right. Mellowry has it all – tasty breakfast, good coffee, reasonable price, and nice staff.

Another good one is Tawii Bakehouse. If your European soul is missing a good sourdough, baked goods with various toppings, and a nice coffee on the side, this is your place.

The popular Sun Rays Cafe is hard to get. It’s a small place with the biggest crowd, and I don’t know why – it’s alright but nothing special. So if you have to wait, just go somewhere else. No FOMO.

• For lunch: Kao Soy Nimman

Okay, here’s a little story: I’m not a fan of the Michelin Guide; it’s so 2000. Still, sometimes, I accidentally run into it. When they give me a number to wait for a table, I always ask myself: why am I here?? Well, usually, because I’m hungry, and when an empty stomach prevents any further or good decisions, I’ve learned that it’s better to accept what comes.. and sit. I love khao soi, and despite the subtitles on my face, I must admit that Kao Soy Nimman isn’t bad at all. But that’s not the best part: for some inexplicable reason, it’s crazy cheap.. and who doesn’t want to eat well for less?!

Besides the Nimman hype, I really like Thapea East, a little warehouse oasis where you can find Barefoot with fresh pasta and an under-the-shade café with simple, cozy vibes.

And Gravity, which is an oldie but a trusty.. just the dogshit smell wasn’t on the street.

• For dinner: Goodsouls Kitchen

Vegan, a bit pricey, and may need a reservation during peak hours, but it’s nice to treat yourself.. and they know how to serve butterfly pea tea like a pro.

Definitely eat at the popup street markets. You will surely find your favourite, but I highly recommend passing by the Lang Mor Night Market because a lady sells one of the best mochis there.

COFFEE

This is the most important question and yet an easy decision: Oneskyfiveseas. First of all, I love the name. Then I love the coffee, the atmosphere, the sweetest owners, and it was across the street from my accommodation.. any more questions?

The coffee is also slightly overpriced in C’Mai (gosh, I hate trends). If you’re tired of the expensive ones, grab a good ol’ clinking coffee at Phumokfa or try Lao beans at 41 Café.

And not coffee, but the best butterfly pea milk tea is at T Cha Thapae.

SHOPPING

There’s nothing you cannot find and buy in Chiang Mai. Two huge Central malls and MAYA get you sorted; and, of course, all the night and weekend markets. You’ll find the exact same vendors at every pop-up market, it’s all about your taste and preference, which market you prefer. But the craziest one is the Kad Na Mor – here, you can get overwhelmed, overfilled, and overshopped.

MASSAGE

Massage is costly here, and the main profile is in the fancy spas. Nothing’s wrong with that, but I’m not a spa person. All I’m looking for is a good (oil) massage to relieve pain and muscle tension (mainly from driving), refresh the circulation, and give my body a pleasant relaxation – 60 minutes, and I’m good to go. I’ve visited a few highly rated and recommended places, but Tira Massage (pinned on the map) is the very best. The last time, I went there every day because the ladies really know their job: excellent massage for great prices. It’s important to know that this is a tiny and always busy place, so you may have to wait (it’s worth making an appointment).

NIGHTLIFE

Staying out and drinking is usually out of my interest. If I find something exciting or extraordinary, I stay.. but I haven’t found that yet. What I can say is walking to the Chai Restaurant (a bit of a Thai-Havana fusion vibe and live music) or the already mentioned Thapea East (live music), or looking around Nimman, which is the main entertainment area with bars and clubs.

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