Last visited in December 2025

Chiang Mai is the hotspot and the No. 1 reason to visit northern Thailand. It’s the mecca of the Lanna culture – pampering your eyes with beautiful designs, your soul with rich traditions, and your belly with delicious cuisine. You can rush through the basics in three days (as widely recommended), but the real Chiang Mai begins where the mainstream tourism ends. I vote for spending an extended time here so you can truly immerse yourself in the uniqueness of the city.

ESSENTIALS

The city has an international airport, a train, and several bus stations, giving plenty of options for getting in and out. When flight ticket prices are in the nonsense zone, I usually take a night VIP bus from Bangkok. The buses are super comfortable, no need to rearrange your bags, and you’ll arrive in C’Mai after sunrise – perfect timing for a delish breakfast. Apparently, the new sleeper trains are a hit too, but I still need to give them a check.

You can get around the city by walking, jumping on a songthaew, taking a signature tuk-tuk, calling a Grab, or renting your own vehicle. Because of the average traffic situation, bikes are always the best (good luck changing my mind on this). The daily prices are the same everywhere (250-400 THB), but some rentals offer weekly/monthly discounts. Cat Motors (in the heart of the city) is my choice; they’re very reliable, don’t rent hogs for beginners, and always give a good price for 1+ week rentals.

By the way, be aware that the CM police is among the strictest in Thailand. The city wall area has one-way traffic, and bikes sometimes feel the urge to cheat at turns (guilty as charged). So every afternoon, police stations at the main shortcut points stop and fine anyone who doesn’t follow the rules. They’re not keen to find a reason to charge you (and don’t differentiate between locals and tourists); they focus on the basics. Memorize the checkpoints, don’t cheat left turns, always wear a helmet, keep your international license with you, and you’ll be fine.

CM is packed with accommodation – from hotels to condos, from daily to monthly rentals. Depending on your budget and how much time you plan to spend in your room, consider booking a place with a pool (it can be scorching hot during the day). For short term, it’s best to base yourself in the Old City. For longer stays, you’ll likely drift outside the city walls and find your own local vibe – each corner of the city is just a little different, which can feel like a huge difference.

SIGHTSEEING

There’s not a dull day here. Besides the top must-see spots, there are lesser-known treasures, too. You can go on day trips in every direction to visit temple complexes, Karen villages, and elephant sanctuaries. I first came here in 2015, and of course, ticked off all the must-sees. Since then, I’ve been more interested in exploring the slow local life, spiced up with short trips and finding hidden gems.

Doi Inthanon is one of the most famous national parks and looks like a real wonderland. Even though it’s massively touristy, it cannot be missed. Join an organized tour or choose the smart way and go on your own – it’s best early in the morning, before everyone else, or at sunset, which can be crowded, but the colours will make up for it.

And if you’re in the area, don’t miss Mae Ya Waterfall (you can visit both sites with one ticket). It’s one of the most stunning falls I’ve seen in the North, and although people constantly come and go, you can find a spot to enjoy its majesty to the fullest.

Doi Suthep is another popular site and extremely photogenic with all the shiny gold. However, I personally like Wat Pha Lat (on the same road) much more. It’s a hidden temple in the middle of the jungle, with tiny waterfalls and magical scenery.

You’ll run into all the ancient temples in the city while walking, but there are two that shouldn’t be missed. Wat Sri Suphan is the discriminative (for men only) silver temple. Its incredibly detailed craftsmanship will leave you speechless, and its cold metallic glow at sunset is out of this world. Wat Phan Tao feels like the opposite: a very atmospheric Lanna-style teak temple where even a few quiet minutes inside will fill you with peace.

If you need a green escape but not a hike, Huay Tueng Thao Reservoir is a great choice: tranquil scenery, a lake, and giant animal sculptures. From there, definitely visit the Samoeng Viewpoint for sunset. Whether the sky is clear or gloomy, it’s one of the best places to sit down and pause life for a moment.

Another adorable destination is Tweechol Botanical Garden. Stop by Nexterday Cafe on the way, grab a coffee and a banana bread, and enjoy them under a palm tree in the garden. I’m obsessed with cacti, and not only the succulent house but the entire botanical garden is pretty, extensive, and well-maintained (also has a swimming pool).

LIFESTYLE

Art and culture dominate the region and don’t stop at the temples. Cool street walls, creative cafés, and art galleries all add to the C’May living.

Baan Kang Wat (and, next to it, Lansieow) is a small craft village with an incredibly captivating atmosphere: cafés, bookstores, workshops, weekend markets, and live music.

If you’re a graffiti lover, Dream Space CNX is your must-go: it’s one of the dopest places I’ve ever seen, from the building to the content.

I also recommend adding MAIIAM to your map. This contemporary art museum hosts interesting exhibitions and has a pretty extra mirror entrance. And nearby, you can get an insight into the art of umbrella-making at the Bo Sang Umbrella Village.

DIGITAL NOMADING

Chiang Mai province is one of my favourites in Thailand – the only drawback is its vast distance from the beaches. However, those who aren’t that much of a beach person don’t need to look any further for a perfect base. The city provides everything for a comfortable and content life, no matter where you’re coming from. Even to compensate for the missing shores, it has several swimming pools, spas, and many hotels offer day passes (often aimed at digital nomads) for a refreshing dip.

Coworking spaces are usually not my thing. I don’t need (nor really like) an office-kinda setting. I prefer to go somewhere where I can eat, drink, and enjoy myself while getting some work done – even better when there’s a self-service laundry next door, so efficiency is tripled.

Anyway, for socializing – especially if you stay for an extended time – there are more and more hubs to connect (business or private), engage, learn, and in general, build that deep sense of belonging. Every district has at least one coworking or social café, so everyone can find their own vibe and tribe.

FOOD

Where you sleep usually determines where you eat. Chiang Mai isn’t big, but it can feel huge once local patriotism kicks in – which definitely happens over time. I’ve changed my base a few times to get a closer look at different districts, and so I have my preferences.

When it comes to food, CM isn’t the cheapest, but it’s one of the few places in Thailand with an almost unlimited selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes. You can eat delicious, healthy, high-quality food.. just have to find it, as many places are trendy without quite meeting expectations. Here are my regulars:

• BREAKFAST

Pick a Bowl is the ultimate smoothie bowl spot, where you create your own bowl at the best price I’ve found in CM so far. Every combination is excellent, and the choices go well beyond basic fruit and granola.

A&C Bakery is the go-to for morning pastries (the pineapple danish is my fav) and a good cappuccino. Simple, reliable, good.

Mellowry Cafe has tasty breakfast options, good coffee, reasonable prices, and friendly staff – meaning it checks all the boxes I’m usually looking for in a restaurant.

• LUNCH

Thapea East is a small warehouse oasis where you’ll find Barefoot Cafe serving fresh pasta (really tasty), and an under-the-shade café with cozy vibes.

Kao Soy Nimman. I’m not a fan of the Michelin Guide (it’s so 2000), but I still run into it sometimes. And every time I get a number waiting for a table, I ask myself: why am I here? Well, usually because I’m hungry. And when an empty stomach prevents further (good) decisions, I’ve learned that it’s best to accept fate.. sit and wait. I love khao soi, and despite the subtitles on my face, I have to admit Kao Soy Nimman is not bad at all – and even with the MG flag, it remained cheap. If you want to try it, definitely come during the day, when you have the best chance of minimal crowds and the shortest wait time.

• DINNER

Lang Mor Night Market, or any other pop-up street market. There are plenty in every district, and they’re the most convenient, cheap, and tasty way to indulge yourself.
By Hand Pizza and Napoli are both solid Italian spots, with good pizza and wine if you feel like treating yourself to something other than Thai flavors.

• VEG(ETARI)AN

Aum Vegetarian Restaurant is my first thought when it comes to vegetarian food. It’s a cozy, family-run place serving Thai soul food. I didn’t even try the original khao soi for a long time because I started with their vegetarian version, and it’s just too good.

Goodsouls Kitchen is a bit pricey but a great vegan restaurant to treat yourself – and they know how to serve butterfly pea tea like a pro.

COFFEE

The most important question in my everyday life is where to get my daily dose of cappuccino. Prices in CM range from 40–130 THB, depending on how trendy or touristy the place is. These are my go-tos:

• CO1FFEE – lovely owners and a choice of beans (light, medium, dark). 50 THB a cup.
• Coffee Waf – a tiny social garden serving cold-pressed coffee, perfect for random chats while sipping your black. 60 THB a cup.
• Onesky Fiveseas – I love the name, I love the beans (all local), and I love the coffee stories. From 60 THB a cup.

And not coffee, but still a crucial part of my daily routine: butterfly pea tea. With lime or with milk – it doesn’t matter, I just need it every single day, and the best takeaway spot is T Cha Thapae.

SHOPPING

There’s nothing you can’t find or buy in Chiang Mai. Two Central malls and MAYA will get you sorted. And, of course, there are the night and weekend markets. The craziest permanent one is Kad Na Mor, where you can get overwhelmed, overfed, and overshopped.

MASSAGE

Massage in CM has two main types: casual massage salons or luxury spas. I’m not a spa person; all I want is a good massage to relieve pain and muscle tension, refresh, and give my body a pleasant relaxation – 60 minutes, and I’m good to go. I’ve tried a few highly rated and recommended places, but Tira Massage (pinned on the map) beats them all. The ladies really know their job; you get an excellent massage for a great price (350 THB for a 60-minute Thai oil massage). One thing to know: it’s a small and always busy place, so it’s best to make an appointment.

NIGHTLIFE

Staying out and drinking isn’t usually my thing, but if I do, Chiang Mai has a vivid nightlife to get going. Don’t expect Europe-style parties; the focus here is more on socializing, meeting people, having some drinks, and life-changing conversations (or whatever).

Chai Restaurant is a cornerstone of the Old Town, with a Thai-Havana atmosphere and great live music. Thapae East also serves live music every night. The Moat House rooftop is the meeting hub for Meetup events. The Deaf Shop is a vinyl listening bar with the best vibes and a great mix of expats and travelers.

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