Ladies and gents: Koh Samui itself. Bo Phut is the heart and the underbelly of the island. Heavily populated, but therefore with the most options in terms of accommodation, food, and entertainment (well, whatever you call it). While the center of the central, Chaweng, is terrible (in my opinion), the district is luckily larger than that and can surprise you with some hidden gems (here I am using this label, but it fits the mainstream).

DOING THINGS

Since I was staying longer in Koh Samui, it was more worth renting a place than paying for hotel(s). It took some effort, and I picked The Belly’s (funny name). Brandnew apart house with a pool, and I was literally the first person staying in my apartment, and I enjoyed this freshness (almost like a new car smell). Perfect location (quiet but close to everything), pretty comfy, and the neighbours were alright too.

As mentioned, if you’re staying longer, rent private accommodation, and if you choose Bo Phut as your vibe, the outskirts of town and up the hills are the best decisions.

Being the hub, Bo Phut is where you get things done. Shopping is best in Central Samui (the supermarket is A+), and for the ladies (or gents), I recommend Pinky’s Nail & Spa to refresh your mani-pedi.

Fisherman’s Village is an overrated but must-see-once stroll with boutiques and restaurants. Sidenote: I didn’t find anything good enough, and it was the only place ever where I got boxed pineapple juice. Geez, we are in the tropics or what.. give me your fresh fruit or nothing.

Ao Chaweng Yai is THE beach, but I hate it. It’s the stereotypical site with beach clubs, jet skis, and show-off people. I personally prefer Thongson Beach, with its relaxed vibe, less crowd, and beach pigs (you don’t need to go to the Bahamas).

Finally, if you don’t want to drive all the way to Lipa Noi to watch the sunset, here are some great alternatives:

• The best spot is right after The Sunset, on the bridge to the Big Buddha. Bring some drinks and snacks, sit down, and enjoy the view of the slow waves, the sun setting behind the hills, and planes landing over your head.
• Another great place is The Roof Samui, which is on top of the hill overlooking Chaweng. Perfect view, good food and drinks.. and it’s a fun, super steep hill ride.
• My absolute favourite, however, is a hidden bar on the beach. Even tho it faces more east, Lost Beach Bar (Choeng Mon) is the place to be. I was looking for something that matches my personality because casual beach bars are definitely not my thing. I found this one by chance but fell in love immediately. The privacy, the feel, and the good music make it cozy and my personal hideaway. Oh, and I’m rooting for their Lost on the beach cocktail.

+1 hint: While enjoying yourself and on the go, don’t forget about the Bo Phut police. At Fisherman’s Village, police are out every day from 10am to 2pm to meet a daily target and stop anyone driving without a helmet (or if they see any other reason to stop you). So always wear a helmet (500 THB) and have your international driving license (1000 THB) with you if you pass by this infamous intersection. (I had one of my funniest and craziest police situations here about how to skip paying the fine, but I’d rather not spill it out in public.)

SIGHTSEEING

Bo Phut offers a few must-see spots, too. The Big Buddha is the prominent first stop, although it’s the least interesting one. I would recommend spending some time at the Wat Plai Laem temple complex instead.

The Pagoda Khao Hua Jook is my sweet spot. Shame on me, I wanted to visit it many times but only managed to do so on my last week. It’s in the heart of Chaweng, and you have a great 360-degree view. No matter what time of the day, it offers a peaceful break from the madness down there.

For a bit of adventure, visit Khun Si Waterfall. You will have some dirt road experience, stunning views, and a lovely waterfall as the reward.

EAT IT ALL

Not only does Bo Phut offer every possible option (from vegan to meat-based), but it actually over-offers, making it challenging to taste everything. I tried my best but won’t list here all the good places (you can find them on the map below), only my top top ones:

• The Nature Samui: Definitely my No.1. The entrance looks a bit confusing because there are no signs, and you have to walk through a bushy path to enter this magical, fairytale garden. Local ingredients, conscious and sustainable approach, cooking classes and gatherings, and one of the most delicious and healthy Thai menus.

• Federico’s: The best pizza in town. Period.
• To Be Sweet: The busy breakfast place to go – or brunch and lunch, as they are only open until early afternoon. Perfect fluffy scrambled eggs, fresh baked goods, beautiful cakes, and good coffee and juices will make you wanna return (every day).

• Chicken Run Rotisserie: This was unexpected. Since I don’t eat much meat, I was not really looking for it. But I’ve passed this place many times, and it always smelled so good that I had to check it out. As the name suggests, they make roasted chicken. You buy it by size, choose the garnish, grab some drinks, done. Maan, this chicken is so tender, juicy, and crispy.. just like they advertise.

• Nanyuan Noodle: I’m a massive fan of Chinese food, and luckily, there are plenty of options in Bo Phut. Nanyuan is extra because of the extra size of the bowls. At first, I was intimidated when they served it. But no complaints, noodles, dumplings, or porridge; everything is a good pick from the menu.

WHERE IS THE BEST COFFEE?

Coffee (I’m talking specifically about cappuccino, which you’ve probably already figured) is good everywhere I’ve tried.

• The best and the priciest is at Flo Coffee. But damn, it’s worth all the money, and I haven’t mentioned the cakes yet. This is the place I visited on weekend afternoons, after lunch, having a little treat while reading.

• My other fav is TheCaffeine.Samui, on the same road. Perfect and cheap cappuccino, with lovely girls serving it.

I somehow love to hate Bo Phut. But also, somehow, I like it – just not Chaweng. This district will give you the experience you choose for yourself. Nothing is impossible; maybe you just have to dig deeper.

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