So why Phuket?

I didn’t know better, and I had an unfinished business here. I jumped blindfolded and kinda enjoyed the power of the unknown. I was so comfortable – like a domesticated cat – in my Bali life, and honestly, I wanted to have some absolutes. I was craving real excitement, a full-body experience, something that sets my soul on fire, something I feel under my skin and can’t hide, only be present. (Well.. not how I imagined, but ultimately, got it 100%.)

I believe in the rebirth of the phoenix: old shit has to burn down so the new can be born from the ashes. I’ve been through this many times, and I’m sure there will be many more. While I didn’t have the physical strength to let go of old things, my spirit was more than ready. And this resistance caused some friction and made everything so dramatic (or that’s just my Leo North Node). My a$$ needed a kick.

The first week in Thailand was about closures: ending cycles, changing habitat, and finally fulfilling a long-started encounter (naughty wink). What I didn’t count on was that if you tick off the checklist, you’ll run out of to-dos. It’s like when you finish reading one chapter but don’t start the next one.. because it’s actually a second book that hasn’t been written yet. I found myself in a state of calm satisfaction, but the spinning had to stop to realize that I was in the vast sphere. And that’s huge. Literally, everything was possible (overchoice is heavy), but the realistic possibilities or the call (or name it as you wish) didn’t show up yet. I did not know what I wanted, what I felt, where I was facing, and where to start. No wonder I got a massive flu after a few days, and at the same time, the monsoon made the days really miserable.

And what can you do in the rainy season?

1. Not moving out of your accommodation because it’s not just rain; it’s hurricanes and winter colds. (I live in the tropics, so anything below 25C is winter for me.)
2. The beaches are useless, swimming is mostly prohibited (maaan, those waves are no joke), and the amount of plastic and trash is incredible. This is my first time in Thailand at this time of year, and I wasn’t quite prepared for the same view (in terms of human pollution) as in Indonesia.
3. No sunsets. Period.

I felt more and more impatient and edgy.. slowly but steadily, the depression was building up. I still tried to use the few dry and sunny hours and days to explore Phuket, which was more of a feeble attempt and distraction.

So, for real, what can you do here in the rainy season?

NORTH PHUKET

You come to Thailand because of the stunning beaches and outdoor activities. When none of these are possible, you are fucked stuck. In May, North Phuket is like a European summer holiday village in September: sleepy, empty, and quiet. If you’re looking for solitude, look no further.

SAKHU

For a few days, I had my base in Sakhu (at the airport), which is good for sorting out transportation (renting a car or scooter) and making plans.

I can recommend Kokotel. It’s super cute, well-maintained, comfortable, has a rooftop pool, a very good breakfast, and excellent cappuccino. (If I didn’t achieve anything else on my Thailand trip, I certainly did an in-depth coffee-tasting tour.) If you are more of a hostel person, then The Snug Airportel or The Luna are perfect choices. Both private rooms and dorms are comfy, clean, and surprisingly quiet; the hostels have a pool and nice common spaces to mingle.

Regarding food, the Naiyang Cafe is the best, but the small restos on the main road (opposite the airport) serve good dishes too.

On sunny days (good luck with that one), you can go for a walk in one of the national parks (Sirinat and Khao Phra Thaeo) or visit Mai Khao (planes take off or land overhead) or any of the beaches on the west coast (all the way down to Bang Tao). Just be aware that you won’t get the same atmosphere in the low as in the high season.

SOUTH PHUKET

I first came to Thailand in 2011; as for many, it was my gateway drug to Asia. During that visit, we used Phuket as a quick standby to the next destination and spent three nights in Patong. I didn’t like it, although I had one of the best chicken soups of my life – in the parking lot of the Simon Cabaret, at a mobile hawker stall, prepared by a lady who looked like a Thai Queen Latifah. Sitting at the little table among the taxi drivers and eating the hot, delicious, and spicy chicken noodle soup is etched in my mind.

I haven’t returned to Phuket.. until now. Of course, I had to take a look (for the fun) to see if I could find this lady again. Well, things change even in Thailand – I had no luck. And I still don’t like Patong.

PHUKET TOWN

Arriving in Phuket Town for the first time left me overjoyed.. because it’s like baby Penang (my sweetheart in Asia). I immediately felt comfortable and was ready to explore. The city is a nice contrast to the tourist beaches, so if you are keen on some culture, art, and old-town vibes, this is your place.

Phuket is one of those islands that has always been colonized (recently by Russians), and each culture has left its fingerprints. The top sights are the Sino-Portuguese streets downtown, with their beautiful and colourful historical buildings and shops. I have a soft spot for these shophouses, with all the details like floor tiles, wooden doors, and altars with pineapples. On your stroll, don’t miss the shrines and temples, and check out any lookouts (Wat Si Rea is quiet and perfect for sunset).

The Chinese colony did a great job on the island. I really like the fusion of the Chinese-Thai atmosphere and food here. However, my body is no longer compatible with deep-fried and meat-with-meat dishes. I somehow forgot about it – and it gave me a slight shock facing it – how much meat Thais consume. If you are a vegetarian, Thailand gives you a hard time. The only advantage over Indonesia is finding fresh-cut fruit, juices, and smoothies much easier. And that’s it. I’ve eaten more meat in two weeks than in the last 6 months, and I feel disgusted. So, no matter how much I want to delve into the world of street food, it barely works for me.

You can find local food courts on every corner, and they won’t disappoint. But if you’re looking for something different – or just more healthy – I recommend The Neighbors Cafe, the Chair Cafe Old Town, or Rose Espresso. They offer tasty vegetarian food, and the coffee is alright, too.

By the way.. coffee. Here’s the thing: trend kills tradition. As a result, it’s more and more challenging to find authentic cappuccino. It hurts that I actually have to explain this: lately, people love the barista style, which does latte art, so ultimately, whenever you order a cappuccino, you get a café latte. And. That. Is. Not. What. I. Want. To. Drink.

I was so excited after my first cappuccino at Kokotel (an old-school classic, just as it should be) that my Thailand trip is turning into a coffee tour. I’m keen to hunt down as many good cafés as possible because once I return to Indonesia, this pleasure will be gone. To give you some insight, Indonesia has one of the best coffee beans in the world. And what do they do? – Fuck it up. Indonesians don’t drink coffee; they drink (white)sugar with coffee (it’s simultaneously gros and sad). I appreciate good coffee, love to try the local types, and, yeah, I have a weakness for cappuccino. So I’m on a mission.

In Phuket town, I had high hopes for Campus Coffee Roaster (you can choose from a wide selection of beans), but MATASECONDFLOOR and Pancake Corner make better, foamier, and tastier white coffee.

RAWAI

If I ever considered moving to Phuket (I won’t, but if I did), I would choose Rawai as my base. It’s close to town and the beaches (Karon and Kata are the best), and even though the people here aren’t my type (the buzzwords are investment, crypto, weed, and Russians), you can find everything within a reasonable distance. Hence, it’s a great choice for a comfortable and quality life.

As already said, forget the beaches in the rainy season. You may have a few lucky days, but the overall experience is nowhere near the dry season. Instead, go to the ultimate sightseeing point of the area: the Big Buddha. Insider tip: visit around 8am, before the tourist busses arrive, so you can have the hilltop almost entirely to yourself and enjoy the stunning view in the morning light.

The other must-visits are the cliff viewpoints (perfect for sunsets when the stormy wind is not blowing your head off). The Promthep Cape with the elephants at Phra Prom Square is a popular, crowded, but somehow, still a nice one. You can also find many temples, trekking sites, cool street art, and intriguing places like a mushroom farm or an abandoned hotel. Unfortunately, elephant riding is still a buzz here, but if you are not a cruel cunt, don’t support these activities!

The area spoils you very well in terms of cuisine. Actually, too well. I wanted to try as many restaurants as possible but quickly found my favourites and couldn’t get enough of them.

Pomodoro Pizza: O Dio Mio. I randomly picked it on the map and now wish they had a restaurant everywhere. No jokes, the best damn pizza (and classic Aperol Spritz, if you know what I mean).

Boost Cafe & Restaurant: First, the place where I fell in love with butterfly pea. Second, every dish is delicious. Third, Ladies’ Night Friday (free cocktail with your dinner).

Go Vegan Cafe: A yoga studio and café with excellent vegan food and smoothies. (You can also rent the room for private training.)

And this is the end of my Phuket story. If I can recommend one thing: unless you are on the verge of a mental breakdown, forget Phuket in May-June. It’s not the right time to visit. Nothing good comes from the West, especially not when we are talking about storms. So do yourself a favour, and don’t schedule your holiday for the rainy season.

I got so fed up with the weather that I just wanted to get out of here. After the sandflies kissed my legs goodbye (no comment), I headed to the airport because Samui seemed like a much better and sunnier place for depression.

When I realized I hadn’t had any in-person conversations in two weeks (hotel check-ins are not convos), I lost it. It was odd because I’m used to travelling a lot, sometimes for months, without seeing white people, and I’ve never had any problem with it. Being and doing everything alone and connecting only virtually was normal. But here and now, it broke me. Maybe I just spilled the last drop of all those years of aloneness, maybe I was just fooling myself, maybe I just needed a hug. Either way, the loneliness is real. At the airport, right after checking in (just to make it super embarrassing and public), I burst into tears. I couldn’t stop crying, I felt paralyzed, and that state stayed with me for the next few weeks. But that’s another story.

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