Manokwari – or Manos for short – is my favourite in Papua so far. It’s not too big, has direct access to beaches, the geography is dope, and people are friendly.

I spent three weeks here, which can be a long time if you mostly just sit in a hotel room. Papua is for the outdoors, and Manokwari Regency is no different – it spoils you with endless #eyecandy #hiddengem #onceinalifetime places.

WHERE TO SLEEP

Manos offers fewer options than Jayapura or Sorong, but you only need one good enough place to sleep, right?! Valdos is probably the best price-value choice: good location, buffet breakfast (this can be handy as life regularly starts later), and the rooms are comfy and clean (by Papuan standards).. just ask for one on a higher floor and with an outside window. Alternatively, there’s the pricey Swiss Belhotel, or Aston, which is a bit out of the city.

Fun fact: There is no fourth floor in the hotels.

WHERE TO EAT

You don’t want to face this topic if you are 100% vegetarian. Although Indonesian and Papuan cuisine is full of veggies, they don’t use them standalone, and sometimes it’s a real struggle to find plant-based food.

The best food is at Hau Yen (Aston), and the Swiss-Café is decent too. Oriestom has the most extensive menu and generally fine dishes (it’s also nice for a sunset dinner overlooking the bay). Ilalang and Tabea have cool vibes with good food, and Phoenam was my go-to place for work, snacks, and juices. Besides these, you can expand your belly’s comfort zone and try some local dishes like papeda.

I must stress again that Papuan coffees are some of the best in Indonesia. I strongly recommend tasting the different regions because you will surely find your match. To do so, head to Bakaro, and you’ll be sorted.

Fun fact: Finding alcohol is difficult – it’s usually on the menu, but in reality, it’s sold out or they never had it. So, if you are looking for booze, spot the locals with black plastic bags in their hands and find which suspicious alley they come out of. These narrow, dark alleys behind the shops lead to Canaan, where different types of liquor are sold behind bars.

WHAT TO DO

Not much in the city. However, people here are very Christian, and the holidays are very serious business. They make the most creative Christmas trees I’ve ever seen and take the New Year’s Eve firecracker game to the next level. If you pick this time of year to visit, you will see some fun madness.. just be careful on the streets, as this is also the time when locals get heavily intoxicated, and their metabolism is not designed for alcohol.

The reason I recommend putting Manos on the itinerary is the scenery. As I said before, make friends with bush pilots because if you make it on a plane in this area, you will be blown away by flying over both land and sea.

The main activities are surfing, diving, and road trips. But don’t forget that weather matters, so know when and where to go. Conditions, activities, and the general atmosphere are greatly influenced by the season.

I came here in December, right in the middle of the official rainy season, which usually means that the surf is pumping, diving can be an option on a calm day, and everything on land depends on the hours of sunshine. If you are lucky. Honestly, I wouldn’t choose the same time for a next visit. I spent too many days in the room (waiting, or because of the rain), which didn’t help in peopling.

There are many beaches around the city, but not too many foreigners, so this can limit the comfort if you are a woman. Pantai Pasir Putih is definitely a must-go and don’t dare miss a dip.

To the north is Amban, the surfing area with long, beautiful, empty beaches. The only problem is the sand flies, so it feels much better in the water than in the sand.

To the south, you’ll find the famous dive site with Japanese wrecks – Pantai Dosa, and a cute tiny island and sandbank – Raimuti. You only need to go at the right tide time, find a local boat, and make a deal.

I had a mission for this Manos holiday, which ended up being challenging both emotionally and travelwise. The plan was a trip to Pulau Rumberpon, but both the set and the setting went south. On the way to Ransiki, we were not only caught in a stormy rain but also in the turbulence of emotions triggered by a series of situations. I don’t spill the details, but it was the end(ish) of the dating situation. (Which I didn’t want to end because of the time already invested. But it was intense, ugly, painful, and it ended anyway. For the better.. but damn, I could have saved that lesson for myself. Or probably not.)

Anyway, Ransiki is a surprising place. It has a newish accommodation (Penginapan Z.Q), several local food options, and a chocolate manufactory.

If you want to go to the islands, head to Pantai Pintu Angin (Wind Gate Beach, lol), bargain a boat, and enjoy the ride. Unfortunately, due to the weather situation and the time given on our hands, we could not make it to Rumberpon, only to Pulau Nusrowi. Nusrowi is two small islands connected by a sandbank (so you can walk across at low tide). Only one family lives on it, with pigs, and it has such an uninhabited, peaceful island vibe.

I would love to come back and explore more of the many islands (like Roswar and Rouw) that are great for weekend trips and offer incredible beaches and rich underwater life.

Fun fact: If you run out of cash, don’t panic. There are no ATMs outside the city, but there are card terminals in the local shops. This is how it goes: Ask if they have a terminal. If yes, you pay the amount you need by card, and then they give it to you in cash for a small handling fee. Easy.

---