Frankly, an average person has no particular reason to come to this part of Papua. Jayapura Regency is heavily colonized (by Indonesians and missionaries), polluted, and not the most livable area. I wouldn’t say it’s extremely unsafe – not forgetting the ongoing conflict situation – but you better watch your back.

So, why and how did I end up here? No secret that I have a weakness for pilots. As I recall, the rabbit hole slide was something like James Bond → guns → cyberpunk → cockpit → pilot. I love machines, and if someone can operate, navigate, or build them, they have a shortcut to my heart.

Papua is well known as one of the most challenging and undoubtedly beautiful places for bush flying. High mountains require high skills.. you got my attention. Being stuck in Bali these years made me meet a few bush pilots. And guess what.. one of them was the reason for my visit. I’m not saying you should fall for any pilot to justify your travel destinations, but – regardless of how things didn’t work out on a personal level (bruh) – I’m incredibly grateful that this person put Papua on my map.

Anyway, if you happen to end up on the eastern edge of Indonesia for some strange reason, here are some insights.

SENTANI

There is no land like Papua. The second largest island in the world looks incredibly gorg from above, and approaching Sentani will leave you in awe; undoubtedly one of the most picturesque landscapes watching from the window seat. Unfortunately, up close, the town is just as dirty as any other place in the country.

Sentani is a hub that primarily serves air traffic. In addition to commercial flights, missionary planes dominate the skies, connecting remote mountain villages, supplying them with food, and transporting people.

WHERE TO SLEEP

At first, I stayed at HIS, which is reserved for missionary families and gives all the security, stillness, and American vibes.

Suni Garden is probably the most famous hotel in the area and certainly offers some amenities, but doesn’t seem worth the extra cost. I usually don’t point out the negatives, but I would avoid the Grand Allison (1 million IDR for a night in a dirty, musty, run-down room is grossly overpriced).

However, I recommend staying at the Elohim Hotel. It is relatively new and good value for money. Although it’s on the main street, my room was quiet and cozy, plus the restaurant is pretty good, too.

WHERE TO EAT

The most important thing: if you are a coffee connoisseur, you must visit Kopi Indonesia. Papua is outstanding and rich in coffee, and the owner collects beans from all regions, making it convenient to source unique coffee beans. You can try and buy many types (whole beans or ground), and they also know how to make a good cappuccino.

For Westerners, the go-to restaurants are Pilós & Bubur Mandala (same building) and Haven. Both have tasty food and healthy options, juices, and coffee. Also, Efka has surprisingly good lasagne, you just have to order it in advance, and other dishes aren’t that great.

WHAT TO DO

The most popular and must-see is Bukit Tungku Wiri, aka Bukit Teletubbies. It works for short walks but presents incredible views if you take a full-day trek to the furthest point. I did it as a New Year challenge, and although it was very tiring, the scenery made up for my physical discomfort. Still, I overly enjoyed sitting down and dangling my feet in the water at the end.. and chose to hitchhike back instead of doing the same walk.

Danau Emfote, aka Love Lake is my absolute favorite. It’s a cheat because the lake looks more like a three-leaf clover and only shows the heart from a certain angle. Still, the whole landscape is indescribable, especially at sunset.

Sentani Lake is not suitable for swimming because of the pollution, but the view is still lovely and peaceful, and Jembatan Putih is a great spot for sunset and watching landing planes over the lake.

The city offers limited activities. Visiting the market is one – it has a slightly different atmosphere than other Indonesian markets, and you can find local goodies, including fabrics and souvenirs.

Another option is to join a Sunday church – super fun with a mild hangover. I’m not religious and have zero interest in worship; I only went there because it felt extra. Honestly, I didn’t pay too much attention to the teaching, but I was wondering. During the week, I didn’t see a single white person.. until I entered the service. The room was full (surprise), so I’m really curious about where the hell they hide on weekdays. I feel like there’s a hidden subculture here (besides the foreign pilots).

If the casual stuff is not enough and you are seeking some out-of-the-comfort-zone experiences, you can do a hardcore hike on Cycloop, chew pinang, or go camping. Depapre has nice beaches (some only accessible by boat), but a shitty road leads there, and don’t forget that this is a man’s world; ladies, leave your bikini at home.

JAYAPURA

Jayapura is the capital and largest city of Papua Province. And that basically sums it up: crowded, dirty, and stiflingly hot. But if you’re spending an extended period at the end of the Indo-world, this is the place to get you sorted.

WHERE TO SLEEP

There are way more options than in Sentani. Swiss-Belhotel is usually the safe choice in Papua, but Aston, Mercure, or Fox will give you the same comfort for cheaper rates. Just make sure your window is not facing a mosque.

WHERE TO EAT

The best place to go is Kusuka. Besides that Pilós & Bubur Mandala (yes, here too) and Haven Beach Cafe. If you fancy some fancy grocery shopping, luckily, Gelael satisfies your needs (not cheap, but it feels good to treat yourself in the Wild East).

WHAT TO DO

Jayapura is not the place if you want to immerse yourself in the indigenous Papuan culture. When you’re done shopping and watching a movie, head to one of the lookouts: Bukit Jokowi or Jayapura City Tower. At the latter, you will find the big Jayapura City sign.

The city is located on the coast and has many beaches and surfing spots. Base G, Hamadi, and Holtekamp are the most popular and actually nice, but expect scamming (50k IDR for parking is not about the parking), hungry eyes, and, like I said, definitely wear no bikinis.

And when you have absolutely nothing else to do, visit the border. It always amuses me how people in this country go places just to go somewhere. There’s undoubtedly a level of boredom when one finds whatever reason to leave home. And there’s nothing better than driving to the border, taking selfies, and then going home. No judgment, we did that too (I would have loved to cross, but Covid closed the border this time).

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