The centrally located Makassar not only connects the islands in Indonesia but also serves as a perfect starting point for excursions within Sulawesi. Due to my travel schedule, I only had time for a day trip, but I’ve pinned my map with destination ideas, which gives me the perfect excuse to return. On this trip, I headed to the highlands, stopped at incredible waterfalls, and wondered about the stunning nature and sights.
Getting lost on dirt roads and shortcuts is something I can’t get away from – sometimes thanks to my own decisions and sometimes to Google Maps. As annoying and exhausting as these routes can be, they give a lot: improve my driving and navigation skills and offer great opportunities for self-exploration. So there’s always a reward at the end.
My first stop was Air Terjun Parangloe. Just as mentioned, Google took me on an alternate route, so I didn’t arrive at the main entrance; instead further up and on the other side of the river. I parked my bike, asked a local lady if there was a waterfall, and got going. I had no idea if I was on the right path (and there were no other people to ask), but I enjoyed the scenery and followed the flow direction. When I reached the top of the falls, the water running in the stone canyons gave me the sense that something amazing was coming. A bit later, I finally arrived at the main entrance, and from there it was easy.. and busy (no wonder on Saturday). I always prepare for the worst (bad habit), that excitement won’t meet reality, but the real-life waterfall left no doubt. The view, the rock formations, and the cooling water in the shade of the trees were perfection. (Do you also see like Egyptian statues are sitting among the falling water.. or is it just me?)
I’m lazy and not particularly interested in learning Bahasa, but I always pick up new words on my journeys and enjoy how my vocabulary expands organically. A word that I learned here is berani. When a woman asked where I was going and if I was alone (yes, I was), she summarized it with berani. At first, I thought it was another typical comment about a foreigner or something. But then I looked it up in the translator, and the word means brave. I love it. Travelling alone as a woman can be challenging and unsafe, but at the same time, it inspires respect. Especially when you go off the beaten tourist track.
The way out of the forest was bumpy, but I was in good spirits and looking forward to my next stop. However, choosing the scenic road may leave you with a flat tire. Two things you don’t have to worry about in Indonesia are petrol and bengkel(mechanic). I lost my front tire in the middle of an uphill curve (best spot), but all I had to do was roll back about 100 meters. Then, I just pointed to the dead part of my bike and waited about 15 minutes until the guys fixed it. Easy.
After the pit stop, I continued to the Air Terjun Takapala. No joke, my jaw dropped here. The winding road down through the village is super lovely, but the high and rapid fall left me speechless. Of course, it’s packed with visitors and souvenir shops, but the scenery is absolutely worth it.
One of the best things about Sulawesi is how the climate and vegetation change wherever you go. The conifer forest of the highlands made me wonder if I was in a European rather than a tropical forest. And it was so cold that I wished I had gloves and a warm jacket. Since it was freezing on the bike and Malino Highlands (my initial destination) is actually just another expensive nasi goreng place with the same view you can see from any other terrace on the way, after a quick stop, I headed back to the valley and towards the hot and humid Makassar.
I didn’t want to drive further because that would be another day trip, and the temperature changes require some preparation. On the way back, I decided to go to Bili-Bili (just because of the funny name), watched the sunset from the mountain road, and stopped for a mango smoothie (and entertained the locals with my white presence). Ultimately, I felt happy about my mini trip and was proud of myself for not cramming too much in a single day.








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