My very first visit to Bali (2017) left some imprints that stick with me no matter what. One of the most significant ones is that I spent my first few days in Ubud, and the first coffee shop I visited was Anomali. I remember trying all the different single-origin coffees from Aceh to Papua, inhaling the unique aromas, savouring the subtle differences, and falling in love.
Tasting coffee is like tasting red wine; there are so many nuances that are sometimes obvious and sometimes hidden, only coming to the surface after a few sips. Over time, you also learn the importance of the set and setting; besides the body-acidity-flavour triangle, how much it matters what you ate or drank before, whether you smoke (and what), the current weather and humidity, your mental state.. and the current Moon phase. I’m also of the opinion that it doesn’t matter (much) how you brew the coffee. It’s all about the beans; where the beans came from, how they were mixed and processed, and if a magic snail licked them as they were roasted before you have that black grind on your spoon ready to liquefy.
To make it clear, I’m not a coffee expert, I just know what I like, and I go after it. Coffee and I have a history – I had to go to Havana (Cuba) for it to finally and conclusively click for me. But before I zoom out too far, let’s zoom in on Sulawesi. Indonesia is coffee heaven, incredibly rich in varieties, and it’s impossible not to find the one that calls your soul. My favourite from those early January Ubudian days is Toraja.
Why others come to Toraja: dead people.
Why I come to Toraja: coffee. (And I like my motivation better.)
Shame on me, it took me a moment to piece the map together in my head. I knew Toraja and I knew Sulawesi, but it just didn’t click right away that Toraja was in Sulawesi. Boom. After it finally did, nothing could have stopped me from getting my coffee fix. During these days, my blood was black gold, and I loved (almost) every second of it. Interestingly, there’s no such thing as bad coffee in South Sulawesi. Even Point Coffee brews Toraja beans, and they make pretty good cappuccino. And besides Toraja, every region has its own signature coffee, which is excellent, too.
Sulawesi is the 11th largest island in the world, so getting from A to B takes time. I had a short time (only 5 days) but a serious mission to visit the origin of my favourite coffee. Although driving was physically exhausting sometimes, the landscape, the people, and the entire experience made it all worth it and unforgettable.
I always say, and it couldn’t be more accurate for this island: get a bike! Now I really say and mean bike, because many roads are much better or only accessible on two wheels. I rented mine from Exbike – they offered the best price, and I got an almost new, well-maintained one. The island also stands out in Indonesia because the rental vehicles are in very good condition. The prices are higher than further west, but the quality and service you get in return are incomparable.
Another important thing (that I regret not having) is a GoPro or any camera you can put on your bike (or helmet). The scenery is mindblowing, the roads are like heaven, and nature will amaze you wherever you go. So before hitting the road, get a good camera and record everything!
South Sulawesi was love at first sight as soon as I saw it from the air on the landing plane. After touchdown and hitting the road, this love only deepened every day.
1. STOP | RAMMANG RAMMANG
The random stones in the paddy fields are very photogenic, but the place has more to offer.
HIGHLIGHT
Tourists mainly come to Rammang Rammang to stroll down the river and enjoy the view of the caste mountains. I didn’t do that because 1. alone is no fun, 2. it was bloody hot, 3. there’s no shade on the boats. I instead lounged at Rumah Ke 2. And what makes it so special to talk about it? Not only do you get perfectly brewed black coffee and coconut cookies, but the owner is a really cool guy who built the whole place out of recycled materials, processes guano, and educates the community about pollution. I found this intriguing and ended up spending almost 2 hours here chatting with random people.
LOWLIGHT
The other main attraction of the area (you can take a cute road along the river to get there) is Air Terjun Bantimurung. But guess what.. the ticket is 30k IDR for locals and 255k IDR for foreigners. It was super crowded, I was the only white person, a female and not Muslim, so it was a hard skip. I had an es jeruk and cigarette with some military guys in the warung and then left.
2. STOP | BARRU
Such a sweetheart spot, which I only found out on my way back to Makassar.
HIGHLIGHT
Coffee Asoka, where everything began. I arrived from Toraja and felt pretty wasted after the long drive. While trying to find a place for the night (I had no luck with Google, and my phone was dying, too), I spotted a coffee shop on a corner. It seemed like the perfect place to recharge – me and the phone. I got an excellent cappuccino (brewed from local Barru coffee) and a fun chat with the guys. Of course, more and more people showed up because the presence of a white person is still an event here. Although they were shy, they still asked for selfies. I was a bit cheeky and told them that Nothing comes for free, so if they want a photo with me, they must collect 5 pieces of trash.. they ran on the street and did it. How cool is that? We had the pics, and I was kinda shocked at how different the people of Sulawesi are in many ways from other islands of Indonesia. They are open, fun, and respectful. I didn’t see any other white people (so they obviously noticed me on the road or walking around), but no one yelled bule or whistled at me. And this was so refreshing because it happens all the time, even in Bali.
After checking into the hotel and finally having a shower, I headed out to grab some food. The night food market (Alun Alun Kota Barru) was a lovely surprise; cute setup, a variety of tasty food, chatty people with big smiles, and you know there’s always someone who plays guitar and has a good singing voice (IDK.. they were born that way). Let me add something I noticed years ago: if you smoke local cigarettes, they look at you like you’re one of them. This creates common ground and acceptance, you become part of the club, and it relaxes the atmosphere. I don’t suggest that anyone should start smoking when entering Indonesia! But if you’re already a smoker, it will make your travels much smoother (or just give you a false sense of security, but it works anyway).
I only had half a day to explore Barru, but I managed to catch the highlight. After breakfast, I met the guys (who accompanied me for the day), and we headed to the mountains. Our first stop was the Celebes Canyon. Well, people like to use big words for small things; it’s not exactly what I expected from the photos, but it was nice, and the water was refreshing in the heat.
We then drove to Lappa Laona. Damn, it’s New Zealand of Indonesia. The road up there was already breathtaking, but when we arrived at the vast field and this view, my jaw dropped. How gorgeous and unexpected this is, like literally being somewhere other than Indonesia. Even tho it was bloody windy, I was stoked (and taught the guys how to light the cigarette in the wind like a pro). Next time, I want to come here with proper camping gear and sleep at least one night in one of the triangle huts (no amenities, only buffalos and the infinite sky).
LOWLIGHT
I can’t really mention anything, maybe just the limited accommodation options; they were either closed, right next to the mosque, or expensive. Yeah, sorting your night is always a gamble and part of the adventure. I slept at Hotel Youtefa Barru, which was comfortable but expensive and a bit noisy as it’s on the main road (but I’d rather wake up to the sound of trucks than the prayer at 4:30 am).
3. STOP | PAREPARE
Everything can’t be perfect (it’s called balance).
LOWLIGHT
I only mention this town because if you’re not a lemming and want to see things in the region, you’ll have to sleep somewhere. Unfortunately, Parepare is halfway between Makassar and Toraja, making it strategically optimal. But for some reason, I hate this place – it has a funny-sounding name tho.
HIGHLIGHT
Parepare is the last port on the coastal highway, and the road gets really fun from here when you turn towards the mountains; the spectacular landscape will make you stop all the time, and the winding roads are in good condition and feel like sliding through the sexy curves of Mother Nature. So put your music in, turn the camera on, and fly.
I really like the Bugis houses, and you can see many in this part of South Sulawesi. There’s so much behind their appealing appearance, and I’m fascinated by the concept, the architectural manifestation, and the holistic approach of these people. To give you a glimpse:
Bugis people view that the house is a form of the man himself, where humans have 3 body parts, namely head (ulu), body (ale) and leg (aje), manifested in the house structure vertically consisting of the roof (ulu = head in humans), the body of the house (ale = body in humans) and the lower part of the house (aje = leg in humans).
4. STOP | BAMBA PUANG
The must-have lunch break. I don’t know why, but place names in Sulawesi sound hilarious. No complaint, I love it! Doesn’t matter which warung you choose for your stop (same-same), everyone comes here for two reasons: 1. they get tired from driving, 2. this view:
Fun fact: This mountain is called Gunung Nona. Gunung means mountain, and Nona means miss. But.. they use the word nona for pussy (not the cat) as well. Now, look at the picture again. Once you see it, you can’t unsee it.
5. STOP | MAKALE
The most incredible thing is that this one is for free. As soon as you cross the border of Tana Toraja, you enter another world. Everything looks different and mystical, and no kidding, the scent of the air changes, too. Makale is the administrative center of Toraja Regency, and tourists usually stop here for the Jesus Christ Blessing Statue, which is indeed a good reason. I mean, not necessarily the statue itself, but the panorama. What I don’t understand at all.. there’s a superb road leading up all the way to the base of the statue, and entry is FREE. You don’t even have to pay for parking. Why? How? Where am I? This is insane.
THE FINAL DESTINATION | RANTE PAO
A long way leads to heaven, but it’s all worth it in the end. Ladies and gents, Toraja itself. The home of world-class coffee and the fanciest storage room for rice I’ve ever seen.
Arriving somewhere without research, looking at things with naivety, creating your own stories, and then marveling at how far you are from reality is such a fun game. Exactly, that was Toraja for me. I’ve seen the houses and heard about the funeral stories before but didn’t dive into the details. Of course, I checked out the main sites and adore the unique boat-shaped buildings (yes, there are separate ones just for the precious rice) and their precisely placed meaningful elements.
KUBURAN BATU LEMO
KUBURAN MARIMBUNNA
As a sort of education, I only had an extended chat over an exquisite coffee with a Torajan girl who explained the basics through her family story; history, religion, architecture, the meaning of colours, and the significance of buffalos. And that’s where she lost me. I understand and hype traditions over mass culture, but keeping certain rituals alive is just nonsense (POV). No one can justify why they have to pay a fortune for some animals just to kill them. This is cruel and bullshit. It may have had a strong spiritual meaning in the past, but I barely think the same rules apply in the present. Seriously, why do people invest more money in death than in life?
Still, everyone does what they want. So do I. And I rather focus on what makes more sense to me: coffee. Because let’s celebrate life and pleasure over death. (I’m not a hedonist, but if I have to choose between sipping Toraja coffee or watching the death of a funeral buffalo.. what is the question here?!)
I wanted to see where the magic comes from, so I drove up (and down) to one of the coffee plantations (Kantor Perkebunan Kopi Toarco Jaya Pedamaran) and cursed god for always having such amazingly bad ideas. Well, we grow through pain and shitty roads. As I figured, no random people (like a crazy white woman) come here. So when I asked if I could enter and walk around, they were so surprised that they let me. The plantation is magnificent. Obviously, there’s not only coffee but an abundance of cocoa, almonds, various spices, and fruits, which you can all taste in the brew. The air (right before the storm) was heavy with the flavours; for me, it was heaven.
A more pleasant and easier way to enjoy the black liquid magic of the mountains is to visit KAA Toraja (a small shop and roastery on the main road). Besides tasting and buying coffees, you can also try deppa tori, which looks like cat poop with white sesame seasoning. Weird AF, but it tastes good and goes well with coffee or tea.
The absolute highlight of my Toraja trip was Batutumonga. Drive up there before sunrise (try not to miss the turns, or you will end up on steep dirt roads.. been there, done that), order a black coffee in the restaurant, then sit back and get stunned. No words, just pictures:
There are a few lookouts like this, and if the weather conditions are favourable, the scenery is breathtaking from everywhere.
Finally, one more thing to mention. I stayed at Pia’s Poppies and highly recommend it. The room is cozy, the food is delicious (the best I found in Rante Pao as I wasn’t too keen on a 100% meat-based diet), and it has a beautiful garden and view of the mountains. I also had the most unexpected encounter of my entire Sulawesi trip here – another white person. A fellow traveller who spent months exploring Sulawesi on his bike but had other thrilling life stories, too. As I was solo travelling in East Indonesia for 2,5 months and didn’t see another foreigner the whole time, I really enjoyed the long talks, sharing and receiving stories.
Toraja is one of a kind and so much more than a bucket list entry. Although it was a very compact trip this time, I’m over the moon that I finally got to see and taste it and do all this during lockdown.
The Flux in PARADISE 
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