After surviving Ramadan on one of Indonesia’s most beautiful beaches, I felt ready to set off and shift from slow life to exploration mode. I only had a quick stopover in Sulawesi before, but I knew this land was calling me, and I had to immerse myself in it. My journey started in Makassar, and I would like to share some insights as to why this city is one of the coolest to visit.

1. CIVILIZATION

I was already on the go for 5 weeks in the Wild East when I finally landed here. Probably, this added to the excitement of being in an actual city (after too much island life and time spent in remote areas, I need this contrast). Yet, to my biggest surprise, more people speak at least a little English here than even in Bali. As a foreigner with basic Bahasa, it was so refreshing to make myself understood without a translator.

Makassar is Jakarta of the East, including size, traffic, pollution, and a variety of consumption options. It’s not a sightseeing city, more of a transit port and trading hub. Fun fact: The geographic center of Indonesia is located in the heart of this metropolitan.

Some practical advice:

• From the airport to the city, you can take a taxi or Grab. I recommend Grab because it’s still cheaper and super organized. However, it only runs cars (no bikes from the airport), and they will charge you extra for the toll road.

• Book your accommodation around Losari Beach. This is the hotspot, and it will make your life a lot easier when it comes to city logistics (traffic, distances, etc.).

• Connect with locals. Check out Couchsurfing or just engage in small talk with anyone on the street, in the mall, or while enjoying a coffee. They are really friendly and talkative and will surely give you some useful insider tips.

2. FOOD

After living for weeks on a proper Indonesian diet (rice, eggs, gorengan..), I was craving something else. I didn’t feel the drive to discover the local cuisine (the signature dishes, like Coto Makassar, are out of my interest), but luckily, Makassar is a food heaven, so I found the spots that suit my taste:

Koffie O’Klok (First Stop by Kopi Ujung): Oh my god, this is the best! I discovered it while I was desperately looking for some healthy food. I love (and tasted) the entire menu, and believe me, it’s delish.

Anomali Coffee Makassar: It’s an individual story, but Anomali is my coffee place. Besides the perfect coffee, they also have a food menu, which is as good here as in Bali.

La Piccola Italy: Well, this was unexpected. Eating crusty pizza in an authentic Italian interior (man, I lived for that red gingham tablecloth) puts you out of time, space, and Asia. And the Sicilian owner makes pretty good limoncello (not for sale, just as a table gift), just to top of the vibe.

3. SHOPPING

The capital of Sulawesi (with a population of about 1.5 million) is true to its position as a trading junction; it offers a fine mix of Eastern and Western products. Whether hunting for souvenirs, revamping your wardrobe, or stocking up on gear for your next big adventure, you’ll find everything you need.

4. SUNSET

The city faces west, providing you with all the sunsets. The most famous sunset spot is the Losari promenade, and you can find plenty of beaches along the coast. A popular one is Pantai Akkarena. However, if you don’t want to pay for entrance and sit in the middle of the local crowd, stop at Pantai Bosowa Tanjung. Follow the dirt road to the edge, park anywhere on the field, and enjoy the perfect sunset. I say perfect because here you can see the sun setting over the sea horizon (no land or mountains are in the way).

5. DAY TRIPS

While there’s not much to see inside Makassar (only if you are into visiting mosques and historical museums), the outside amazes with diversity, and you don’t even have to drive far. You can take a day trip or go for a weekend getaway, choose the mountains or a small island; the possibilities are endless and absolutely worth it.

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