It was pure synchronicity to spend a week on the forgotten spice islands. After landing in Ambon, I put little effort into planning; I just went with the flow, and everything unfolded perfectly. This is how I ended up on Banda Neira. Wait, where? I guess not many of you know what it is, where it is, and why it is interesting. Let me point you in the direction (not like I had a clue before, lol).

The Banda Islands are crucial in our human history, and the reason behind this is one word: nutmeg. The most mind-blowing thing is that nutmeg (myristica fragrans) is only native to these tiny islands in the entire world (you need to zoom in a lot to see them on the map). Of course, greedy old explorers (colonizers) fought for the land and killed each other for centuries.

Once, nutmeg and mace were among the most expensive spices, and learning more about this extraordinary tree makes it understandable. Every part of this plant (from the stem to the leaves to the fruit and seed) can be used, leaving zero waste. I find this remarkable, especially in our fast plastic world. So intriguing on the one hand and upsetting on the other. I have a hard time accepting the fact that people (including religions) are pests. No true wisdom is passed down to the next generations because it’s just all about money. There’s actually a documentary about the Banda Islands, and I’m glad I only watched it after I left (so I could enjoy the little island life in my naive ignorance).

HOW TO GET TO BANDA NEIRA?

This is the trickiest part. On the internet, you can only find one option (currently) to get there: Pelni boat. That’s a complete no-go for me for several reasons (slow, dirty, crowded, and it’s a boat). But here comes the synchronicity. While I was sitting in Ambon and the island seemed literally inaccessible, I texted the right person who delivered the solution.

SAM Air is a small airline that operates flights across the Banda Sea. There’s no fixed schedule (it changes every week), and you must reserve a seat in advance. Prices are around 350-400k IDR one way, which is a bit more than a Pelni boat, but that doesn’t matter as these two are incomparable. SAM flies with Caravan planes, and this was my first time on a small plane, and I’m hooked. The flight from Ambon to Banda Neira takes about an hour, with the most incredible view I’ve ever seen (as they fly at a lower altitude, you can see things better).

WHERE TO STAY?

Our current C-world makes random trips a bit less random-friendly. That means if you want to visit remote places, you better do some research and plan ahead. Luckily, not everything was closed, and I could book my accommodation in advance.

Despite its size, the island offers many accommodations. My choice was simple: as far as possible from any mosque. If you’ve lived in Indonesia long enough, you know the pain of listening to the prayer at 4:30 am. I stayed at Nurasia Guesthouse, which was even better than expected. The rooms are cozy and bright (for some reason, Indos hate windows), the house is right on the waterfront and has a large chill area and a rooftop with a superb view.

The only struggle was food.. thanks, Ramadan. Banda Neira has a long, wet market along the harbour, which bustles early in the morning and after sunset but is dead during the day. My daily lifesaver was Delfika Guesthouse. They were always open, and the food was exceptional (OMG, the pancake with local nutmeg jam is incredible). Besides this, I just ate what I found (mostly rice and chicken), nothing worth mentioning.

WHAT TO DO HERE?

Walking. Lazy ones can find a scooter to rent (be prepared that it will be expensive), but it’s too easy to wander around this small island. I really liked strolling the streets; the colonial houses, mixed with Chinese and all kinds of influences from the bloody history, make this town so different from other places in Indonesia.

All museums were closed, but I’m not a cannon person anyway (even without knowing the local history). I preferred to visit the cows in Fort Nassau and walk up to Fort Belgica (to say hello to the cows there, too). A week is probably too long if you don’t do any boat trips or diving, but I didn’t mind sitting in one place. It was also interesting to watch how these people live their lives. They are pretty isolated from everything, and the past year hasn’t helped that either. The only happening is when the Pelni arrives (once a week), and everyone goes to the harbour to sell what they have.

I want to point out one thing because it’s not only annoying but also profoundly stupid. Kids (age 3+) are playing with firecrackers on the streets. The first night, I thought it was some kind of celebration or holiday, but no, it was their daily entertainment. I saw a few children and babies with kinda missing faces and burnt body parts (no doubt the result of a badly landed fire), and I don’t get why the parents (seemingly) don’t care. I’m far beyond the point of finding logic or encouraging people to think, but it’s still shocking to face the reality. (Am I judging now? Whatever.)

WHERE TO FIND NUTMEG?

Nutmeg grows everywhere, but the oldest and largest plantations are on Banda Besar. Accessing it from Neira is easy: you can take a private boat for 500k IDR or jump on a public one for 10k IDR. The port is at the south end of the market. To find a transfer, just scream Lonthoir or Biau (the two ports on Banda Besar), and someone will immediately come and point you to his boat. They usually run from 8 am until sunset. I recommend leaving in the morning because it’s always busy, the boats fill up quickly, so you don’t have to wait long. It doesn’t matter which port you arrive at in Besar (same distances to everywhere); however, on the way back, you should go to Biau as Lonthoir is less frequent. It’s impossible to miss the port of Biau; I’ve never seen this long, narrow pier before (you can only see it on the satellite map). If you don’t want to walk much, ask any scooter driver for an ojek, and they’ll give you a lift (just agree on the price in advance). To illustrate, the ride between the two ports costs 10k IDR, but feel free to support the locals with whatever amount you feel like.

There are two things to see here: the plantations and Fort Hollandia. Spoiler alert: both are incredible. I arrived at Lonthoir and went first to the plantations. The walk was easy, but the air was heavy and sweaty, foreshadowing the approaching storm.

To reach the plantations, follow the rainbow staircase lined with nutmeg trees up the hill, then turn right. At Sumur Pusaka Lonthoir, take the path into the forest, through the cemetery, follow the cows to the right, and you’ve arrived. From here, you can walk as far as you want (obviously, the edge of the island is the limit). It’s a breathtaking trek with the sound of the forest, the sunlight filtering through the foliage of the giant trees, and the spicy scent in the air. Not only nutmeg grows here, but also almonds, cinnamon, walnuts, and cloves. I only spent about an hour wandering around and wish I had done more.. but the terribly loud cacophony of the mosques ruined my Snow White fairytale and made me leave.

I didn’t know what to expect walking towards Benteng (Fort) Hollandia, but the arrival left me with a loud Wow. Once you reach the ruins of the fortress, this view unfolds in front of you:

This is probably one of the coolest places I’ve ever smoked a cigarette. And this is where the storm caught me (luckily, the gate of the fort provided shelter). After the rain stopped, I walked down to the jetty to catch a boat back to Naira. I took it slow because I was fascinated by the streets sparkling in the sunlight, the dazzling colors, and the spicy smells after the rain.. and because it was so humid, I was sweating like a pig.

WHAT ELSE IS THERE?

The Banda Islands consist of seven inhabited and several uninhabited islands. Apart from Banda Neira and Banda Besar, there is much more to see and do in the archipelago. Unfortunately, the last few days, when I could have explored more, the weather deteriorated, but this gives me a good reason to return sometime.

Gunung Api. With 650 m, it’s not the highest active volcano, but as I heard, it’s not the easiest hike either. I wanted to challenge myself and climb this beast, but now it’s on my bucket list.

Pulau Pisang. It means banana island and has nice snorkelling spots.

Pulau Hatta. The Raja Ampat of Maluku. Beautiful white sand beaches, vivid marine life, and mostly no internet connection. Sound like paradise.

Pulau Run & Ai. The fusion of beaches, dive sites, and history.

If you only want to visit Banda Neira, three days is more than enough. However, if you’re keen on the other islands, I would definitely take it slowly (2-3 weeks). I’m grateful for the interplay of coincidences (or call it the Universe) that brought me here because this place has a unique aroma in the great Indonesian blend.

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