Nusa Penida. The home of mantas, Jero Gede Mecaling, and black magic. This fascinating island is not only an enchanting destination – especially when Bali feels too overwhelming – but also has a juicy history. The spiritual legends of the former penal colony are said to have deterred even pirates from entering. Well.. believe the myths or not, you shouldn’t be afraid to visit Penida.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT?

The time is now! I couldn’t be more grateful for this Covid situation that made the crowds disappear. Cruising around the empty island (and running into the same 10 people everywhere) was bizarre and magical at the same time.

Nusa Penida is not a hidden gem, and it doesn’t have a single hidden gem left – people colonized everything. I first visited it in 2017 when tourism was up and running; rediscovering the island in the current circumstances felt like a guilty pleasure of privilege. Not gonna lie; I adored it and happily immersed myself in post-apocalyptic fantasies.

WHAT IS ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW?

Bring cash and a sarong. ATMs may be empty or unavailable on smaller islands, and most places don’t accept cards, so it’s better to be prepared. The prices are a bit higher than in Bali, but since everything is officially closed right now, at least there are no scams at the entrances and parkings (yass). And the sarong.. you’ll need it on the beach and when visiting sacred places, which are often the same.

Getting to Penida is easy. The speedboats depart from Sanur, the local boat from Padang Bay. I recommend Penidago to check the schedules and buy tickets in advance (if needed).

If you want to island hop to Nusa Ceningan or Lembongan, go to Toya Pakeh Harbour. Just tell the locals your destination and hop on a local boat. Alternatively, you can bargain for a private trip.

On the island, you can rent a car (with a driver) or a scooter. The roads are not the best (but better than 3 years ago), and the sights are mostly only accessible on two wheels or on foot.

The scooter rental is 50k IDR/day (you will be charged as much as you are willing to pay, but this is the realistic price), and you can arrange this upon arrival at the port or at your accommodation. There are two petrol stations, but every house has fuel in bottles, so no worries about this. The only thing I recommend is wearing a helmet. Not only because the rental scooters are pretty crappy (maintenance is not a thing) and the roads are narrow, bumpy, and uneven but also because Penida is perhaps the windiest island I’ve ever visited. Damn, those spirits are intensely raging here, and it’s super easy to catch masuk angin.

In terms of accommodation, it all depends on your budget. However, I suggest booking something in the southwest part of the island as you’ll have an instant sunset spot.

WHICH ARE THE MOST EPIC SITES?

Literally all of them. As you follow the coast, you’ll reach one breathtaking place after another (sometimes you will run out of breath because of the hiking, too).

This island is gorgeous. However, it looks completely different in the rainy and dry seasons; the large green fields can be dried brown, so if you want the same view you’ve seen online, plan your trip in the right season. Also, always check the tides before visiting the beaches and water splash spots (like Angel’s Billabong), as they look pretty dull at low tide (but safe) and stunning at high tide (but dangerous).

One of my favourite places is Peguyangan. Killer stairs lead down (and up), but the private waterfall pool is everything, especially if you’re the only person there.

Another one is Tembeling. Travel bloggers usually complain about extreme roads (I just call it lack of experience), but in reality, the path through the forest is not heavenly paved but an easy ride. Then, some stairs lead to the sacred pools and finally to the beach. It’s like a water fairy spot with so much serenity.

For sunset or just enjoying a refreshing dip, my pick is Crystal Bay (or Pandan Beach next to it). It’s easy to access but still feels private and serves one of the best views.

HOW MUCH WILL YOU SPEND?

Here’s an approximate calculation for a 5 days/4 nights Nusa Penida mini holiday (just to break your heart when you compare how much you spend after Covid):

Fastboat round ticket: 300.000 IDR

Accommodation: 486.000 IDR

Scooter rental: 200.000 IDR (+ 65.000 IDR petrol)

Food and stuff: 630.000 IDR

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