If I hadn’t come to Australia because of a dick interest, I probably would have started my Downunder experience in Sydney. Why? Because it’s Sydney.

People either love or hate (or love to hate?) the Harbour City. At this point, I’m leaning more towards loving it, but as a matter of fact, I haven’t spent enough time to dive deep and form a debatable opinion.

The first time (in November), I spent 5 days here. Arriving from the bleak Redland (QLD), the culture and big city vibes in my face were so refreshing – I didn’t know I was missing civilization that much. The time on my hands was short to explore the natural beauties (like the Blue Mountains or the famous beaches), so my focus was on skyscrapers, streets, and art.

Lacking a car, it was reassuring to see that Sydney has public transportation (unlike Brisbane). Everything in the central area is within walking distance (almost like in Europe), but it’s also easy to catch a bus or train if needed. By the way, the airport link is amazing, fast, and cheaper than Uber – all you need is an Opal Card.

REDFERN

My base was in Redfern, where I enjoyed the warm welcome of new friends. This setting gave me a different perspective; I felt more like a local than a tourist.

As far as I know, Redfern was a low-class suburb on Aboriginal land, and somehow, I could feel all that history. On the first evening, walking the streets sparkling after the rain, I fell in love with the atmosphere, and the feeling stuck with me. The architecture (Victorian terraces) and the crazy purple jacaranda trees create a lovely neighbourhood feel, and the sub is packed with restaurants, bars, bakeries, and shops, making it a real gem in the heart of the capital.

NEWTOWN

I wanted to dive into culture, street art, galleries, performances.. literally anything to feed my soul. Newtown is the buzz-suburb, and a real visual stimulation with super cute houses, painted walls, and vintage shops. During the day, the King Street area feels kinda casual, but it goes full-on after working hours.

Besides being super happy finding all the murals, I also had an outstanding dining experience at Lat Dior African Eatery (without pictures, I was too busy eating). OMG. Every dish we ordered was insanely delicious, and randomly mixing them created a belly-pampering fusion.

Something I love about Sydney is that it’s full of galleries and museums, most of which are free. Newtown, Chippendale, and Ultimo offer a lot to look at – inside and out. For example:

Carriageworks is a multi-art center with markets, performances, and exhibitions. I saw the Nick Cave’s project here (no, not that Nick Cave), which was grandiose and vivid, perfect for a Sunday brunch.

White Rabbit Gallery is the home of Chinese contemporary art, a tea house, and all crazy stuff. I was intrigued by its name and visited right in time to catch the Supernatural – a witty, grotesque, and amusing exhibition.

CBD

I’m probably the only one who saw the Opera House only on the fourth day of her stay – I just went for a walk and suddenly ended up in front of it. Honestly, I was somehow disappointed; the shapes and lines are admirable from afar, but I didn’t swoon up close. I can say the same about the Royal Botanic Garden – more vast than interesting (the Brisbane Gardens are still the best). However, the Art Gallery of NSW nearby has nice collections and lots of Aboriginal art (old and contemporary), so that’s worth a visit.

Circular Quay is the center of the center and always crowded for obvious photogenic reasons (the city model of Sydney in the Customs House is not bad, tho). The Rocks and Dawes Point are the best part of the madness – I love the historical buildings, and it’s fun to imagine what it must have been like with sailors and prostitutes in the smell of fish and gin on the streets.

BONDI

As I said, I didn’t come here for the beaches. I only ended up in Bondi for a pizza (which was actually pretty good), but it was cold and windy, so I was happy to leave after a short beach walk.

+1 DAY in Sydney

In February, when I was considering leaving the country earlier than planned, I found one good reason to stay:

Since I know her music, I’ve wanted to see Tash Sultana live. As she was on tour, it was my best chance. I organized everything around the concert: from arranging a ride from Mylestom to Sydney, getting a ticket, finding a place (Couchsurfing rulz), to booking a relocation car to Melbourne. And this was one of the best decisions of my life.

I couchsurfed in Coogee, which seemed to be too casual without character, so besides having lunch in the rain, I didn’t get too attached to the sub. After completely rearranging my bags, my life, and getting things rolling, I headed to the CBD to start the evening. The concert was actually sold out, but thanks to Facebook, I found a ticket.. for half-price. Once I had my precious ticket, I was ready for a few drinks.

I usually don’t drink, but this was a special day. On top of everything, it turned out that a bartender I’ve known from earlier (feels like another life actually) is in Sydney. Lovely coincidence. Since he’s one of the few who know how to make a chocolate-orange G&T (my favourite cocktail), I couldn’t resist visiting Maybe Sammy. One drink is no drink (I was also introduced to the delicious Plantation pineapple rum), and spending some time in fun company made me ready for the groove. Smiling and jumping around the Quay was sooo urban, and I felt like the teenage me in the big city again.

And Tash Sultana? She’s one of a kind. The concert was perfect and so emotional that a whole range of feelings could be felt in the smoky air. Her music is even better live than the studio versions, and I was overwhelmed with gratitude and happiness, but I felt bittersweet and lonely, too. But that’s life; we dance and move on. So did I. I took the bus (OMG, it seriously felt like I was in Europe), slept for 5 hours, and then drove 12 hours to Melbourne.. but that’s another story.

I promised myself that the next time I visit Sydney, I won’t let myself be mindfucked by a fuckboy, and I’ll enjoy the city to the fullest because apart from the crazy expensive Aussie life, New South Wales has a lot to offer if your life isn’t fixed in the work-eat-sleep triangle.

---