FROM BYRON BAY TO SYDNEY | NEW SOUTH WALES

After the New Zealand exile, I felt ready and excited to return to Australia. The original idea was to spend 3 months exploring before heading back to Asia.. but my plans always change.

BYRON BAY

Since I blamed Queensland for all my misery, one thing was sure; I had to leave it for good. I didn’t know where to start, so just scrolled the map and searched for HelpX options.. and found one in Suffolk Park (Byron Bay).

My host was a dramatic (but thus entertaining) middle-aged woman who even came to the Gold Coast airport to pick me up (no complaint, it was very convenient). I spent two weeks at her place, doing some casual gardening (always so relaxing and satisfying) and watching the entire season of Grace and Frankie. It was lovely and so relaxing.. I only had to make sure to keep my distance from the snakes.

According to the mainstream point of view, Byron Bay is the coolest place on Earth East Coast; neo-hippies, drugs, and positive vibes only. It seems to be indeed the freedom paradise in the police state Australia, but it looked more like the local version of Ubud and Canggu to me.. and pretty sure I’ve seen a few people over Bali before.

What to do in Byron Bay?

Cape Byron, the easternmost point of the mainland, is the number one attraction. The walk around the lighthouse is easy, with stunning views, and is perfect for sunrise and sunset.

The nature here is undoubtedly beautiful, and everything turns more green, vivid, and lush as soon as you cross the border between QLD and NSW. The beaches are gorg, but the ocean is best for surfers, jellyfish, and sharks.

Byron Bay is the meeting point of “free-spirited” people, so beach parties, BBQs, and festivals are part of everyday life, just like markets; the monthly Sunday market and the Thursday Farmer’s market are the most famous. Since I was treated to delish homemade food, I cannot recommend any good cafés or restaurants in town.

If you don’t have a car, the best way to get around is by bicycle – it can be sweaty in the mid-day heat, but you couldn’t be more eco-friendly, right?! And you can tick off your daily workout while cycling, or visit Circus Arts if you’re up for some extraordinary fun. And that’s it. Or maybe just one last thing: who the hell approved this dildo?

MYLESTOM

Somehow, my enthusiasm for spending more time in Australia waned in Byron, so I was looking for a really good reason to stay. After finding the one (will spill it later), I booked my flight and tried to figure out how to fill the remaining time. That’s how I moved to Mylestom. Never heard of this place? Don’t be too hard on yourself; me neither. Mylestom is a tiny commuter, about 25 km south of Coffs Harbour. I stayed there for 3 weeks in 99% isolation, and as brutal as it may sound, this remoteness has its own advantages.

I had the opportunity to spend these weeks with honeybees. I didn’t have as much direct contact with them as I wished (frankly, beekeeping is not the easiest job), but they were buzzing around me all the time, so I’m happy with my first-timer experience.

Bees amazed me every day with new details about themselves, which also made me reflect a lot on our human lives; how we build our colonies (society), how we treat each other and other species, and how much our survival depends on living beings that we deny or completely ignore. Honeybees adapt to new conditions pretty well. I wouldn’t necessarily call this good (because of the triggers), but it’s worth recognizing how their brains work and evolve and how the natural flow changes under the pressure of humans.

I feel so lucky for this experience (just like meeting the sea turtles before) because not only did I gain new knowledge, but I also enjoyed the warm hospitality of a lovely beekeeping couple, and I cannot describe the tastiness of the shared dinners and meaningful conversations.

What to do in Mylestom?

Hardcore relaxation. There were only three places in Australia where I could enjoy the beach: Airlie Beach, Hervey Bay, and Mylestom. And the latter was special with its vast emptiness and low tide pools.

If you want to see some civilization, your best choice is Coffs Harbour, which has all the Aussie stuff, shopping, restaurants, and the Big Banana.

The unmissable place nearby is Bellingen. The town is quiet and more authentically hippie than Byron Bay. It also has a monthly community market and a lovely spot under the bridge where you can swim in the Bellingen River (without sharks).

Never Never (I love the name) is part of the enormous and beautiful Dorrigo National Park. Sadly, I only saw a small corner of it, but the bushwalks can be quite an adventure.

Lacking my own vehicle, I didn’t really leave the streets of Mylstom, but I didn’t mind. I loved the crashing ocean waves in the background, the 5 am kookaburras (better than any alarm), the evening possum feedings, the barefoot walks by the riverbank, and the stargazing on the super-dark nights. And the town has one of the most artistic public toilets.

NEWCASTLE

After saying goodbye to cozy Mylestom, I headed for Sydney. Fortunately, I found a rideshare and a good chat company. This was essential because the ride took 9 hours. We only made a few stops on the way, the longest was in Newcastle. After the long solitude, being in an actual city hit hard again, but it wasn’t as shocking as arriving at Airlie Beach. The first impression of Newcastle was alright, but it became an instant disappointment after arriving at the beach – the shore was full of blue bottles. It’s easy to imagine what was in the water and why beaching in Australia is such a nightmare.