Initially, I wanted to go on a road trip (by scooter) from Bali to Yogyakarta, but the calling to visit was stronger, and I didn’t have enough time, so I bought my flight tickets instead. I haven’t been this excited in a while – I missed this feeling, and was incredibly happy to get out of Bali.

Traveling alone as a woman can be challenging in an Islamic country, so I clarified some details in advance (like dress code, driving, or even walking alone after sunset). Bali is the most liberal island in Indonesia, and since I haven’t been to Java yet, I didn’t want to seem more bule (= foreigner) than necessary. I spent 4 days in Jogja, and this region of Java is awe-inspiring. People are friendly and curious but not offensive, and if you’re genuine and respectful, you’ll have a great time. And so here are my experiences in 7 points on how to spend a wonderful time in the royal city of Indonesia.

1. GET A BIKE

If you’re used to Indo-style traffic, you’ll have no problem. Compared to Bali, people here drive more calmly; they don’t have that haughty pushiness. Of course, the city is big and busy, and you have to pay attention, but the traffic flows much smoother, and the lack of beginner tourists also made me feel much safer.

I rented my scooter from Pamitran. They have good prices, the hog was in good condition, and the pickup and drop off works at the airport (or anywhere you need it), which is very convenient. Having a scooter means a lot of freedom and saves a lot of time in city traffic (unlike with cars).

2. CHOSE YOUR ACCOMMODATION WISELY

I was advised to stay around Malioboro Street because it’s central, easy to walk around, etc. But to be honest, I would have freaked out if I had to stay there. Following my intuition, I decided to stay at Kosala Jogja, and I loved it. A lovely couple runs this hostel and has created an amiable vibe. There is no wifi and no hot water, but a warm welcome and a homely atmosphere await, which is perfect after exhausting days of exploration. Different people, different needs.. it was perfect for me.

3. BE A TOURIST IN JOGJA CITY

Each district has a different vibe, but they have one thing in common: graffiti. The walls are marked mostly with stencil art, and it’s good to see how people express themselves and that their art is not removed immediately. I skipped the main attractions of the city and visited only these:

Jalan Malioboro is a horrible mass tourism spot. Very hectic, just the same stuff everywhere, too many people, the worst traffic, and finding a parking spot after sunset is challenging. If you like souvenir hunting and loud bargaining, this is your place. It’s surely not mine. The only good thing in this area is Pasar Beringharjo. The main entrance is on Jl. Malioboro, but the best part is at the end of the building (opening from Jl. Pabringan); there is the actual market with vegetables, spices, fish and meat, and all you need. I loved it. The atmosphere, the smells, and the colours are exactly how we imagine an authentic Asian market. I enjoyed walking around, watching people at the small food stalls, and wondering what some strange-looking dried stuff could be.

A surprising experience in Jogja is that the sellers don’t care much about the customers. They only talk to you if you stop and ask something. I was prepared for a Bali-style madness where I’m just looking for escape routes, so I found this attitude very refreshing.

Kampung Wisata Taman Sari is located in the heart of the city. A small town labyrinth – with cute houses, narrow streets, and shops – leads to the bathing complex and other must-see spots. It has a pleasant atmosphere, and although it’s heavily touristic, you can still find a good rhythm to skip the crowd. Take your shots, then just get lost between the colorful walls.

4. EAT LIKE A LOCAL

Of course, I did some research and pinned a few warungs to try their food, but ended up at other places. My first hit was right next to the hostel, Mbah Cemplung. According to the story, the grandma was the Sultan’s personal chef, and the recipe has not changed since then. There’s only one dish on the menu: ayam goreng. You choose which part of the chicken you want, the meat is perfectly fried, the seasoning is tasty, and the sambal is hot, too. Still, I wouldn’t say it was the best fried chicken of my life. By the way, chickens look different in Java and resemble the dinosaurs much more (both in size and shape).. maybe that’s the reason.

One of the signature dishes of Jogja is brongkos (beef stew). Based on Google recommendations, I went to Brongkos Alkid Handayani. It has to be the best in town as people line up (I had to wait 15 minutes). I ordered blind, I seriously had no idea what was on my plate, and in my glass. I only figured from the bill that the food was brongkos complit and the drink es campur. Also, my table companion shared some jadah tempe with me, which was yummy.

My favourite place was, however, Warung Makan Mbak Emi. This lady makes delicious gado-gado (which I love) and made my belly happy whenever I visited her for breakfast.

Besides these, I tried ViaVia Artisan Bakery because I heard they have fair baked goods (not bad, but still not what a European is looking for), and had a great finding, Sakura Mochi. When I see mochi, I have to eat it – my only regret is that I only bought a 6-pcs box.

5. ADMIRE SOME ANCIENT HERITAGE

Yogyakarta is known for its two world-famous ancient temple complexes. One is the Prambanan. I visited right after arriving and was a little surprised at the 25 USD ticket price (my fault for not checking beforehand), but the view is stunning as you approach the complex through the umbrella tunnel with a hot coffee in hand (it comes with your ticket). The temples are robust and impressive, full of details, so take your time to observe and find fascinating elements.

The other is my childhood dream and the place you must see once in your life, Borobudur. The regular ticket costs 25 USD (you can buy the 2 temple visits in one package for less); the sunrise visit is 30 USD. Of course, I went for sunrise.

I woke up at 3 am, and it took me a 1hr 15min drive to get there (some Muslim party was happening in the middle of the night and blocked the whole main road). I like to drive at night and early in the morning when the streets are empty, and you can feel the cold of the tropics – freezing, but at least it wakes you up. It was a Sunday, so I shared the site with many other people (I’m sure it’s even worse during the day). The dawn was quite overcast, but the cold stone structures, the morning colours, and the mist rising from the valley made the experience magical; I felt very grateful to finally be there.

You can find all the information about Borobudur online (interestingly, almost all the Buddha statues are headless), and I recommend that instead of your selfies, focus on the structure, the reliefs, the stories, the surrounding jungle, and the early bird songs. This composition creates incredible awe, and you can feel really good energies if you pay attention. After the walk, coffee/tea and gorengan are served, which is perfect for sitting down and contemplating.

There’s a strange place near Borobudur, Gereja Ayam (how could we live without a chicken temple?!), that I recommend visiting for fun. The view from the top of the chicken’s head is amazing (including Borobudur in the distance), the ticket price is 30k IDR, and you get traditional fried cassava with it. By the way, the scenic route from the temple back to Jogja goes along a river, and the view of the valley offers a magnificent drive.

6. GO ON A ROAD TRIP

Spoiler alert: Don’t want to chase waterfalls in the dry season simply because they don’t exist.

Expectation vs Reality

Air Terjun Luweng Sampang

Air Terjun Kedung Kandang

You can find many trip destinations around Yogyakarta; it all depends on the season and the time on your hands. I planned to visit Pantai Sinden but got a cold and didn’t feel like going that far, so I only made it to Batu Giring (which I don’t fully understand).

I also ended up at Bukit Paralayang. The road is pretty steep at some points, but the view is worth the challenge. However, Pantai Parangtritis below is nothing special, mainly because it is 100% Muslim, and so you wouldn’t strip down to a bikini anyway.

7. NIKMATILAH DIRIMU!