The best choice for long-distance travelling is the High Speed Rail: more expensive than the TRA trains, but cheaper and still faster than domestic flights. At my hostel, I also got a 20% discount.. the only challenge was getting my actual ticket.

I went to the Main Station one day earlier to switch my voucher for the ticket and find out the timetable. It’s okay when you have to wait sometimes a bit longer in the queue, it’s okay that not everyone speaks English, but how to call it when an agent asks you to come back in an hour because other people want to travel now and he’s the only person who speaks (a bit of) English? I was surprised (welcome to Taiwan), asked at another counter for help (no luck), but then just returned to the main counter when it was free. Funny that another agent without proper English could show me the timetable, and after choosing the train, gave me the ticket. What I can recommend in this country: patience, relax & smile. It’s good to be prepared for such situations, but no stress, you will get what you need.

The HSR is really convenient, and with 2 stops, I arrived at Kaohsiung in less than 2 hours. You need to get off at the Zuoying station, and from there, take the MRT (in Kaohsiung: KRT) to your destination.

Original plan: A night in Kaohsiung and then Kenting National Park for 1,5 days.

Reality: I stayed two days in Kaohsiung.

All I knew about Kaohsiung was that it’s called the most pleasant city in Taiwan and has some great street art. My hostel was next to the train station, which usually means dodgy and less clean areas, but not here. I liked this Pineapple Backpackers Hostel (of course, the name helped me choose): good location in a cute little back street, friendly owner (no reception), clean rooms (take off your shoe rule), and beds with curtains.

After check-in, I had to figure out what was next: go to Kenting in the morning or stay in the city, as I had a nice first impression. After I realized that Love is the name of the city river, the cuteness overloaded, so I stayed.

The next day, I woke up pretty lazy and took it easy to find food and discover the area. It was Monday, and after the busy Taipei, Kaohsiung felt empty: wide roads without traffic, large green areas, calm people, and many Western students. I grabbed some pork dumplings and sat in the shade by the canal: it was so serene that I had to check a few times I was where I thought I was and didn’t sleep for a day.

After my brunch, I walked to the Love River, enjoyed the noisy birds and the sound of laughing men who played chess in the park, then climbed to the Shoushan Martyr Shrine (it’s better with a scooter, but the walk isn’t a killer either). On the hill, the shrine is only the second main attraction because the first one is the LOVE installation. The park is well maintained, the view of the city is lovely, and the word love is written in 32 languages ​​on the deck. I liked the vibe, and thanks to the weekday afternoon, only a few people were around.

From here, I walked towards the harbour area, characterized by small buildings but wide streets, local shops, and the smell of food everywhere.

For sunset, I visited the Lotus Pond. It’s a real activity park with temples, wakeboarding, and picnic areas. From the metro station (Ecological District), Chongde Road leads to the lake, which is a flyover – a bicycle path over Cuihua Road. Walking over the freeway at golden hour, with music in my ears and coffee in my hand felt sooo good.

The Dragon & Tiger Pagodas are busy with visitors but are a must-have. Don’t just run in and out – it’s worth checking the details and the weird and scary miniature stories on the walls.

One thing I realized in Kaohsiung, but it’s typical throughout Taiwan: no matter how dirty some streets, areas, or subways look, you can always find a clean and free public toilet (they are regularly cleaned, always have paper and hand wash, no tips or fees). You cannot find anything like this in Europe, and I was not particularly interested before, but if you are a girl on period, it’s good to know that you don’t have to hunt and then find a disgusting place when you need it.

I definitely wanted to see a Taiwanese beach, so I spent the next day on Cijin Island. The easiest way to get there is by ferry from the Gushan Ferry Pier. Cijin is a popular destination with food, souvenirs, and activities.. but I only cared about the beach.

What else could I wish for.. in December.. on Tuesday? That was the first moment during my trip when I felt pure happiness: sunshine, salty air, blue sea, curly hair, me alone on the empty beach. I love and missed this so much.. and sugar cane juice.

I was a little disappointed with Taiwan (I know, I know.. high expectations), but after I tasted the sugar cane juice with pineapple and tapioca, my opinion changed: nothing bad can happen as long as there’s sugar cane. The selection of food in Kaohsiung is as good as everywhere in Taiwan. Pretty sure I also reached some matcha overdose here – I love it in every form, especially as ice cream and waffle on the same plate.

Kaohsiung is so different from the capital; people are more relaxed and slower, the city seems lighter and cleaner, and, of course, it has the sea. It is pleasant and liveable indeed, and I’m happy with my decision to stay.